Lairig Ghru - Sunday 31 March 2024
Route
Coylumbridge - Rothiemurchus Forest - Cairngorm Club Footbridge - Aultdrue - Lairig Ghru - Pools of Dee - Clach Nan Taillear - Corrour Bothy - Luibeg Bridge - Glean Laoigh Bheag - Bob Scott Memorial Hut - Derry Lodge - Glen Lui - Linn of Dee
Parking
Lay by on the B970 at Coylumbridge a few yards west of the the entrance to the Rothiemurchus Caravan Park. The Grid Reference is NH 91451 10678 and the nearest postcode is PH22 1QN. On fair weather days it pays to get here early as this parking fills up very quickly.
Mileage
20 miles
Terrain
The Lairig Ghru is a mountain pass therefore there is a path running its entire length. However, when snow has fallen this makes route finding tricky therefore the ability to navigate is a must, particularly when the snow is coupled with low cloud. My route today was mainly clear, however I encountered deep snow in the area both before and after the Pools of Dee at the Lairig Ghru's highest point (2739ft, 835m).
Weather
Sunny with light breezes and some overcast spells
Time Taken
9hrs 20mins
Total Ascent
2645ft (806m)
Map
OS 403 Cairn Gorm & Aviemore
Walkers
Dave with Angie & Fudge accompanying me as far as the Cairngorm Club Footbridge
Coylumbridge - Rothiemurchus Forest - Cairngorm Club Footbridge - Aultdrue - Lairig Ghru - Pools of Dee - Clach Nan Taillear - Corrour Bothy - Luibeg Bridge - Glean Laoigh Bheag - Bob Scott Memorial Hut - Derry Lodge - Glen Lui - Linn of Dee
Parking
Lay by on the B970 at Coylumbridge a few yards west of the the entrance to the Rothiemurchus Caravan Park. The Grid Reference is NH 91451 10678 and the nearest postcode is PH22 1QN. On fair weather days it pays to get here early as this parking fills up very quickly.
Mileage
20 miles
Terrain
The Lairig Ghru is a mountain pass therefore there is a path running its entire length. However, when snow has fallen this makes route finding tricky therefore the ability to navigate is a must, particularly when the snow is coupled with low cloud. My route today was mainly clear, however I encountered deep snow in the area both before and after the Pools of Dee at the Lairig Ghru's highest point (2739ft, 835m).
Weather
Sunny with light breezes and some overcast spells
Time Taken
9hrs 20mins
Total Ascent
2645ft (806m)
Map
OS 403 Cairn Gorm & Aviemore
Walkers
Dave with Angie & Fudge accompanying me as far as the Cairngorm Club Footbridge
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GPX File
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Route Map
The parking area on the B970 at Coylumbridge
We have had the Lairig Ghru (pronounced "Laarig Groo") on our walking radar for quite a while. We were staying near here at Grantown on Spey and therefore waited for a decent weather window in order to do the walk in the best conditions possible, considering the views that would be on offer. The Lairig Ghru is the best known hill pass in Scotland. It climbs to an altitude of 835 metres and crosses through the central Cairngorms, one of the wildest areas in the country.
It is truly a classic walk.
We have had the Lairig Ghru (pronounced "Laarig Groo") on our walking radar for quite a while. We were staying near here at Grantown on Spey and therefore waited for a decent weather window in order to do the walk in the best conditions possible, considering the views that would be on offer. The Lairig Ghru is the best known hill pass in Scotland. It climbs to an altitude of 835 metres and crosses through the central Cairngorms, one of the wildest areas in the country.
It is truly a classic walk.
From the start the walk passes to the right of the Rothiemurchus Camp & Caravan Site. Just after the site the track heads through the Rothiemurchus Forest.
The forlorn and very derelict Lairig Ghru Cottage
At a fork in the track a sign points to the left and continues through the forest
The origin of the name "Lairig Ghru" has been discussed widely over the years. One translation gives the place name "Làirig Dhrù", meaning pass of Dhru or Druie, with the local pronunciation "Laarig Groo". The probable derivation is from "Drùdhadh" meaning oozing. Any visitor to the highest point of the Lairig Ghru may accept this as a possible derivation because two watercourses, one on each side of the summit, appear to "ooze" from the valley floor.
Another train of thought is much less certain about the derivation of the name, stating that nineteenth century cartographers solved the problem to their own satisfaction by substituting for Ghru the word Ghruamach, for which they had apparently not the slightest authority. Ghruamach means forbidding or surly, and forbidding the Lairig often is in wild weather. However, authorities on place-names reject these suggestions, and are obliged to leave the name Ghru a mystery, although it seems to contain the same root as the Allt Dhru burn which drains it to the north.
Many Gaelic place names have lost their original spelling and meaning through translation into English. The prolific and late Dundonian mountaineer, Syd Scroggie felt that the name Lairig Ghru was such a case and suggested that the Lairig Ghru was the Lairig Ruadh (Red Pass). This fits with the original name of the mountain range, "Am Monadh Ruadh" (The Red Mountains).
The origin of the name "Lairig Ghru" has been discussed widely over the years. One translation gives the place name "Làirig Dhrù", meaning pass of Dhru or Druie, with the local pronunciation "Laarig Groo". The probable derivation is from "Drùdhadh" meaning oozing. Any visitor to the highest point of the Lairig Ghru may accept this as a possible derivation because two watercourses, one on each side of the summit, appear to "ooze" from the valley floor.
Another train of thought is much less certain about the derivation of the name, stating that nineteenth century cartographers solved the problem to their own satisfaction by substituting for Ghru the word Ghruamach, for which they had apparently not the slightest authority. Ghruamach means forbidding or surly, and forbidding the Lairig often is in wild weather. However, authorities on place-names reject these suggestions, and are obliged to leave the name Ghru a mystery, although it seems to contain the same root as the Allt Dhru burn which drains it to the north.
Many Gaelic place names have lost their original spelling and meaning through translation into English. The prolific and late Dundonian mountaineer, Syd Scroggie felt that the name Lairig Ghru was such a case and suggested that the Lairig Ghru was the Lairig Ruadh (Red Pass). This fits with the original name of the mountain range, "Am Monadh Ruadh" (The Red Mountains).
The transit through the forest is an absolute delight
Arriving at the Cairngorm Club footbridge over the Am Beanaidh
The Am Beanaidh from the footbridge (Click Play to view)
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There are two metal signs in the middle of the bridge. The one on the left details the history of the bridge and the one to the right more importantly informs the walker as to the average time and distance to/from various points. It was pretty accurate.
Angie & Fudge return over the bridge and head back to the car at Coylumbridge. They would meet me in approximately 8 hours at the Linn of Dee.
The junction of paths known as "Piccadilly" near the end of the Rothiemurchus Forest
Leaving the forest the trees thin and I was now on an open path with a view back to Geal-charn Mor
With the Allt Druidh below me to the right the big boys come into view - Braeriach is over to the left but further on would be over to my right
Over to my right I could now see Carn Eilrig
The route ahead of me really opened out now and the Linn of Dee looked an awfully long way away
This was just glorious walking and I had not seen a soul since Angie left me earlier
The Allt Druidh (Click Play to view)
The path coming down from the Chalamain Gap
The Chalamain Gap is a bouldery defile on the path that links the Cairn Gorm ski road with the Lairig Ghru. There is a small gap in the granite that allowed for safe passage of drovers and their livestock long ago.
The Chalamain Gap is a bouldery defile on the path that links the Cairn Gorm ski road with the Lairig Ghru. There is a small gap in the granite that allowed for safe passage of drovers and their livestock long ago.
The impressive wall of Lurcher's Crag (Creag an Leth-choin)
A closer view of Lurcher's Crag
My path ahead with Lurcher's Crag to the left and Sron na Lairige to the right
Looking back down the Lairig Ghru
Directly below Lurcher's Crag
A panorama of Lurcher's Crag
The walk that just kept on giving - passing along the great trench of the pass
The crags of Sron na Lairige over to my right
Another look back down my route from this fabulous pass
As I gained height the snow became more prominent and in some cases deep underfoot
Nearing the Pools of Dee, Cairn Toul and The Devil's Point (Bod am Deamhain) came into view
A Lairig Ghru selfie with Cairn Toul for company
The first of the two small lochans that form the Pools of Dee. The pools are one of the two sources of the mighty River Dee that flows to Aberdeen. The water from them passes out under the stones.
The second pool - just a few yards further on from the first
Looking back to the second pool with the lower slopes of Britain's No2 highest mountain beginning to the right - Ben Macdui
The Devil's Point & Cairn Toul from just south of the Pools of Dee. Cairn Toul is the 4th highest mountain in Britain.
The lower slopes of Ben Macdui
This truly was a magnificent sight to behold and nobody else here - Cairn Toul left & Sgor an Lochan Uaine (The Angel's Peak) to the right
A Cairn Toul panorama - I had to pinch myself to realise I was so lucky to have these conditions today
Hopping mad he was
Looking over to Coire an Lochain Uaine
Everywhere I looked there were beautiful sights to behold - I truly was in amongst it today without the need to climb
Approaching The Devil's Point (Bod an Deamhain) - the Gaelic name translates to "Penis of the Demon"
The Clach nan Taillear Stone
The name translates as "The Stone of the Tailors" and according to local legend it was behind this rock that a group of tailors died in a blizzard when crossing the Lairig as part of a wager. The wager was that they attempted to dance, during the hours of a winter day at the "three Dells" - the Dell of Abernethy, the Dell of Rothiemurchus and Dalmore in Mar. They danced at Abernethy and at Rothiemurchus and had crossed the most exposed miles of the Lairig when a blizzard overtook them in Glen Dee. Sadly they succumbed whilst vainly seeking shelter behind the stone which is now their memorial.
The name translates as "The Stone of the Tailors" and according to local legend it was behind this rock that a group of tailors died in a blizzard when crossing the Lairig as part of a wager. The wager was that they attempted to dance, during the hours of a winter day at the "three Dells" - the Dell of Abernethy, the Dell of Rothiemurchus and Dalmore in Mar. They danced at Abernethy and at Rothiemurchus and had crossed the most exposed miles of the Lairig when a blizzard overtook them in Glen Dee. Sadly they succumbed whilst vainly seeking shelter behind the stone which is now their memorial.
The Devil's Point with Corrour Bothy below - I would break off to the bothy shortly to have a break
Up close & personal with the "Penis of the Demon" - ooh err Missus
Three for the price of one - Beinn Bhrotain, The Devil's Point & Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir
The path splits at Grid Reference NN 98553 95505. I would come back to here once I had been to Corrour Bothy which is accessed via the path to the right
Crossing the infant River Dee via a footbridge. The bridge was provided by the Nature Conservancy in July 1959.
Corrour Bothy with the backdrop of The Devil's Point. The original bothy was built in 1877 to house a deer watcher during the summer. It was reconstructed in 1949 by the Cairngorm Club, and is maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association. A composting toilet has been installed in the extension at the south gable end of the bothy. The bothy has a visitors book which I duly signed. A man called Ralph Storer has published extensive extracts from the books, making the observation that, over the years, their literary merit has lagged behind the increase in visitors!
The interior of Corrour Bothy
Recrossing the footbridge over the River Dee with Carn a' Mhaim providing the backdrop
Looking down Glen Dee from south of the path split
Looking back to The Devil's Point, Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir & Cairn Toul
Beinn Brohtain
Dropping down to cross the Luibeg Burn
The Luibeg Burn - I had hoped to cross here but the burn was in spate therefore I kept my feet dry. I headed upstream to the north along the western bank to Luibeg Bridge.
The Luibeg Burn from the ford (Click Play to view)
Above the Luibeg Bridge
Luibeg Burn from the footbridge (Click Play to view)
The view north along Luibeg Burn from the footbridge
From the bridge I headed on a good path along Gleann Laoigh Bheag with the Luibeg Burn to my right
The footbridge over Derry Burn which would take me into Glen Lui
The Mountain Rescue Hut near Derry Lodge
The very much boarded up Derry Lodge
One of the most asked questions in Glen Lui has got to be “Aren’t they doing anything with Derry Lodge?”. The building has not been occupied since the Cairngorm Club gave up the lease in 1967 and has been slowly going downhill ever since. Derry Lodge was built by the estate in Victorian times and was used as a base for shooting parties. The impressive building, which, like the rest of the estate now belongs to the National Trust for Scotland, is boarded up and unused at present. A few years ago planning permission was sought in order to turn the building into a walker's hostel but nothing seems to have come of this.
One of the most asked questions in Glen Lui has got to be “Aren’t they doing anything with Derry Lodge?”. The building has not been occupied since the Cairngorm Club gave up the lease in 1967 and has been slowly going downhill ever since. Derry Lodge was built by the estate in Victorian times and was used as a base for shooting parties. The impressive building, which, like the rest of the estate now belongs to the National Trust for Scotland, is boarded up and unused at present. A few years ago planning permission was sought in order to turn the building into a walker's hostel but nothing seems to have come of this.
Near to Derry Lodge stands Bob Scott's Bothy. This Bothy is the third incarnation of the building, the previous two having been destroyed by fire (1986 & 2003). Bob Scott was a local Deer Stalker & Gamekeeper on the Mar Lodge Estate.
From Derry Lodge there now began a long and lovely wander through Glen Lui to journey's end at the Linn of Dee
Crossing the bridge over Lui Water
Lui Water from the footbridge
Arriving at the Linn of Dee Car Park - now where are Angie & Fudge?
The Car Park at Linn of Dee - what a long but fantastic walk that was!