Day 4 - Tuesday 14 June 2016
Patterdale to Shap (16.7 miles)
After yesterday's deluge we awoke to sunshine and clear skies that remained constant for the rest of the day accompanied by very light breezes. This was even better because the transit over to Shap is a delightful walk that takes in the idyllic Angle Tarn, The Knott, Kidsty Pike and the long but enjoyable amble along the western shore of Haweswater Reservoir. After one of Heather's hearty farmhouse breakfasts we collected all our now thankfully dry kit, packed up and headed off on Day 4.
Our B&B in Patterdale was just outside the village therefore we headed back in and called at the Post Office for some snacks for the long trip over to Shap. Whilst there we had a chat with the 4 Edinburgh chaps we met at Ennerdale Bridge before making our way to the Rooking turning which leads to the Boredale Hause path. The ascent to Boredale Hause is one we have done many times and is on a steep but good path that eventually curved around to the east to arrive at the flat grassy area of the Hause. There are a myriad of paths at the Hause which does catch people out - so much so we saw a couple of C2C walkers turning back down from the ascent of Place Fell.
Our B&B in Patterdale was just outside the village therefore we headed back in and called at the Post Office for some snacks for the long trip over to Shap. Whilst there we had a chat with the 4 Edinburgh chaps we met at Ennerdale Bridge before making our way to the Rooking turning which leads to the Boredale Hause path. The ascent to Boredale Hause is one we have done many times and is on a steep but good path that eventually curved around to the east to arrive at the flat grassy area of the Hause. There are a myriad of paths at the Hause which does catch people out - so much so we saw a couple of C2C walkers turning back down from the ascent of Place Fell.
Fudge going through his daily paw waxing routine outside Noran Bank - something he tolerates rather than enjoys!
The view from the door of our B&B at Noran Bank - Hartsop Dodd with Caudale Moor behind
Looking to Boredale Hause
This gate gives access to the open fell side from Rooking
Arnison Crag & Birks
Looking down towards Brothers Water with Hartsop Dodd, Caudale Moor Red Screes & Middle Dodd
A lovely panorama from the ascent of Boredale Hause
3 out of the 4 lads from Edinburgh - we would not see them again after today
On the ascent of Boredale Hause with Ullswater, Sheffield Pike, Glenridding Dodd & The Dodds behind
Boredale Hause
Looking to the ascent of Place Fell - not for us today. Sky looks promising.
Never tire of the views on the ascent of Boredale House - Hartsop Dodd, Caudale Moor & Red Screes with the Kirkstone Pass centre
Looking to the western side of the Fairfield Horseshoe - Fairfield itself is to the right
Leaving the Hause we headed off to Angle Tarn and on the way passed Andrew & Michelle, thankfully looking a lot drier then when we last met them in the pub the previous evening. One of two Angle Tarns in the Lake District (the other is in Langdale), it is an idyllic and serene place and worth spending a few minutes to explore or simply sit and enjoy it. Leaving the tarn we headed first to the east before arriving at the gateway that leads to the path to Rest Dodd. After following this path for a while we branched off to the right to make the long transit over to The Knott. Just before the ascent of The Knott steepened we stopped to chat with Nicole & Karen before heading up the steep path to gain the summit. Dropping down off The Knott we met Nicole & Karen again and walked with them, firstly along the Straits of Riggindale before turning sharp left to make our way over to the conical summit of Kidsty Pike which was in full view and had many people up on the top (the HF group as it happens). Reaching the summit ourselves the cairn was unfortunately adorned with rainbow flags - therefore we bagged these up to later put in the bin in Shap.
Hart Crag, Fairfield & St Sunday Crag
With Andrew & Michelle on the path to Angle Tarn
Brothers Water with Caudale Moor & Red Screes amongst others
Fudge having "a moment"
Angle Tarn
A panorama from Angle Tarn looking to the Fairfield & Helvellyn ranges
Gray Crag
Rest Dodd - the C2C path goes through the gate and follows the wall to the right
Looking North into Bannerdale
Heading for The Knott - the path can be seen in the distance heading up the fell
Looking back towards Patterdale from the ascent of The Knott
Rest Dodd with The Nab to the right
The summit of The Knott - just look at all those fells
The lovely Nicole & Karen - walking in aid of Edale Mountain Rescue
A helpful sign at the left turn on the Straits of Riggindale - miss the turn and you are on the way to High Street rather than Kidsty Pike
High Street
Kidsty Pike with the HF group in residence
A Kidsty Pike panorama
A team photo on the summit of Kidsty Pike
The summit of Kidsty Pike
Leaving Kidsty Pike it was now time to descend to Haweswater via Kidsty Howes. Many people comment on how steep this descent is and to be fair the gradient does drop sharply in places, particularly as Haweswater nears. However on a clear day with Haweswater in full view for the most part it is a delightful descent and we were soon at the bottom where a large group of walkers were having lunch. Chatting to them, we found out this was a guided Holiday Fellowship (HF) group and the walkers were from all over the globe - we would see quite a lot of them over the remainder of the walk. Crossing the bridge we then headed along the path to reach Speaking Crag where we stopped for our own lunch - a delightful spot therefore it was off with the boots and an airing of the feet. Many of our fellow walkers passed as we ate and soon it was time to put the boots back on and crack on with the long, long transit along the western shore of Haweswater.
Descending off Kidsty Pike to Haweswater with Nicole & Karen. Much is made of the descent to Haweswater from Kidsty Pike - it's not that bad really, just a bit steep in parts
This is about as steep as it gets on the descent to Haweswater
A Haweswater panorama
On reaching Haweswater Fudge found a lovely doggy plunge pool
For the most part the path along the reservoir is above the shoreline and relatively flat but there are a couple of sections that undulate. After a few miles along the edge of the reservoir the route left the view of the shoreline, passed the dam to enter a small section of forest before arriving at Burnbanks. This small and pretty hamlet originally contained cottages which housed workers and their families that were involved in the building of the dam in the 1930s. From Burnbanks we crossed Naddle Bridge and were delighted to find a well-stocked honesty box which we purchased a few items from before heading over fields and meadows to pass the lovely farm at Rawhead to reach Rosgill Bridge.
Haweswater - to the right is Branstree
There is no disputing the fact that the walk along Haweswater is a long one - but a lovely amble all the same
Have come across a couple of these massive gates in the Lake District
An old Manchester Corporation Water Works sign at the Northern End of Haweswater. MCWW started the controversial construction of the Reservoir in 1929 resulting in the loss of the tiny villages of Measand & Mardale Green.
A welcome catering enterprise at Naddle Bridge near Burnbanks
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I think we get the message
That face looks familiar - Belted Galloways near Naddle Bridge
The farm at Rawhead
From Rosgill Bridge the route meanders very pleasantly along field paths to arrive at the 12th Century monastic religious house of Shap Abbey. Considering the fact that much of the Abbey's stone has in the past been pilfered to build other buildings nearby, it is still an impressive sight. Leaving the Abbey, the route headed up the hill to reach a lane which took us into Shap and our digs for the night, New Ing Lodge. The bar was open therefore it would have been rude not to partake of a couple of cold ones (repeated for posterity) and we had a chat with some C2C cyclists as another batch of walkers arrived. Amongst the walkers was Keith who we had met at Naddle Bridge - Keith had his own Taekwondo teaching business (not a bloke to mess with) and we would walk with him part of the next day. After sorting ourselves out and with the B&B kindly doing a washing load for us, we dined well at New Ing that night before popping out to Shap Co-op to top up on supplies.
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Coast to Coast signs aplenty now we have left the National Park
The lovely Packhorse Bridge near Shap Abbey
Not far now - soon be beer o'clock
Fuggly Sheep at Shap
The River Lowther & Shap Abbey
Last time we were here the drinks were in a big bucket of ice - business has clearly improved in the intervening 4 years. Just a shame everything was warm!
Shap Abbey
Come on Fudge - let's go & have a drink
Overnight Accommodation
New Ing Lodge, Shap - www.newinglodge.co.uk
We stayed here in 2012 and the place has not changed a bit. Good food, fab beer and very friendly staff. New Ing is extremely well run by Scott & Jamie.
We stayed here in 2012 and the place has not changed a bit. Good food, fab beer and very friendly staff. New Ing is extremely well run by Scott & Jamie.
Day 4 Data
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Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Cumulative Time Maximum Ascent Total Ascent Cumulative Ascent |
16.7 miles
61.7 miles 8 hrs 42 min 31 hrs 34 min 2595 feet 4622 feet 16084 feet |