Day 2 - Saturday 2 June 2012
Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite (15.4 miles)
After a good nights kip all was well with the world. Looking out of the bedroom window of our room at The Stork the weather looked glorious. Breakfast was taken with Billy, Eileen, Steve and Jordan, who, like us were also off to Rosthwaite. Also eating with us were 4 fellows from the North East – more about these chaps later. Paul very kindly dropped us all off at Ennerdale Bridge and we staggered our departure, we being last off at 0840 as we sorted our gear out and took a few photographs on the way to Ennerdale Water.
The journey along the South Shore of Ennerdale Water is undulating, particularly around Robin Hood’s Chair and Angler’s Crag but is a good lead in for what awaits you later. We passed Billy and Eileen who were at the top of Angler’s Crag admiring the view but Steve and Jordan were long gone as they intended to go up over Red Pike and High Stile – more later. Reaching the end of the lake at The Side we then began the long 4 mile trudge along the forest road to Black Sail Youth Hostel. There is no getting away from it – the road was hard work and seemed to go on and on, which it did but the views were super, particularly of Pillar and Great Gable. Yes, a forest track to some may be boring walking but not to us – it beat a day in the office and the weather was spot on.
Ennerdale Water
Although we have visited it before, the Youth Hostel at Black Sail is still amazing. It must be the most idyllic hostel of its kind and was very busy, not just with people doing the C2C, but also lots of other walkers and runners. It is in an ideal position for exploring Pillar, Kirk Fell, Great Gable and the ridge running from Red Pike to Haystacks. The weather was sunny and warm therefore we sat outside the hostel and aired our feet. We then took advantage of the Hostel’s limited but yummy catering facilities by indulging in two pieces of homemade Chocolate Fudge Cake at £1 per slice washed down by a nice cup of tea for Dave and a glass of squash for Angie. Although we did not know it, at Black Sail there were many people doing the C2C who we would bump into later on in the walk, namely Ian and Kim from Blackpool, a group of four lads we breakfasted with this morning from the North East who we immediately christened “The Four Porn Stars” as one of them was in his late 50s and had bleach blonde hair – says it all really - and a nice couple who were camping all the way over. We also bumped into Philippa and David plus Stephen, Tracy and Tess the dog who were on our transport to St Bees. Tess was a hilarious sight as she was wearing doggy boots to protect her pads!
Billy & Angie at Black Sail - The Four Porn Stars behind
Leaving Black Sail at 1315 we then made our way up Loft Beck. It is easy to see why people do make the mistake of going up to Great Gable as in mist you could miss the path off to the left. Loft Beck is no easy climb and we were glad to get to the top and see Grey Knotts ahead. The views from the top of the beck are superb with Buttermere and Haystacks prominent. There then began the long walk in to Rosthwaite via Honister Hause. Passing Drum House we made the long descent to Honister Slate Mine with one thing on our minds – a nice icy cold drink – you know, the type that all good Cafes have in abundance bearing in mind it was a hot day and all that!! On arriving at the Cafe the following conversation took place at the counter:
Angie Do you have any cold Diet Coke please?
Waitress Nah
Angie Do you have any cold drinks?
Waitress Nah
Angie Do you have any cold Diet Coke please?
Waitress Nah
Angie Do you have any cold drinks?
Waitress Nah
On the path down to Honister with Borrowdale ahead
Undeterred by the cafe’s poor attitude to stock control and fridge management we pressed on to Rosthwaite. The journey via Seatoller and Johnny’s Wood is a fitting end to the day although it did seem to drag on. Just before Rosthwaite we passed two people who we were to see a lot of over the next week or so and this was Mark and Irene from Cork.
The Flock In Tea Room at Rosthwaite was a welcome sight and we arrived there at 1645 - just in time to enjoy a gorgeous Cream Tea prior to walking the ½ mile to our B&B at Yew Craggs. Dave was assured by the young lady behind the counter of The Flock In that the content of the photo below was all “Diet”.
The Flock In Tea Room at Rosthwaite was a welcome sight and we arrived there at 1645 - just in time to enjoy a gorgeous Cream Tea prior to walking the ½ mile to our B&B at Yew Craggs. Dave was assured by the young lady behind the counter of The Flock In that the content of the photo below was all “Diet”.
The B&B at Yew Craggs is in a lovely spot next to the beck and we enjoyed a super view from our comfortable room over to Castle Crag and surrounding fells.
After a long soak and a sort out of our personal admin we walked the mile over to Stonethwaite for dinner at The Langstrath Inn. Arriving at the Inn we bumped into Steve staggering out the door of his B&B. He and Jordan (who was having a lie down!) had a particularly long day over the high route and they did not realise how difficult the day would be. This made us realise how right we were to stay low as much as we could during the walk. We walked into the pub with Steve and who was there propping up the bar but Billy who was making his way through his second pint of Fosters, minus Eileen who we later found out was trying to persuade her B&B landlady to let her have a bath – something about a water shortage???Having bought Billy a beer, he then told us that his landlady had stated from the off that there was no negotiation over the breakfast time – it was 0830 or go without. Billy had stressed to her that if they had breakfast at that time they would not make it to Patterdale!
The Langstrath was very busy and thankfully we had booked a table. Our meal was excellent and although the Scallops were off the menu we made do with King Prawns in Tempura Batter and this coupled with good beer and company made it an enjoyable evening. Just before we left “Tim nice but Dim” arrived and we left him demolishing his meal as we walked the mile back to Rosthwaite.
Another really enjoyable days walking coupled with meeting some really nice people who were to become friends.
After a long soak and a sort out of our personal admin we walked the mile over to Stonethwaite for dinner at The Langstrath Inn. Arriving at the Inn we bumped into Steve staggering out the door of his B&B. He and Jordan (who was having a lie down!) had a particularly long day over the high route and they did not realise how difficult the day would be. This made us realise how right we were to stay low as much as we could during the walk. We walked into the pub with Steve and who was there propping up the bar but Billy who was making his way through his second pint of Fosters, minus Eileen who we later found out was trying to persuade her B&B landlady to let her have a bath – something about a water shortage???Having bought Billy a beer, he then told us that his landlady had stated from the off that there was no negotiation over the breakfast time – it was 0830 or go without. Billy had stressed to her that if they had breakfast at that time they would not make it to Patterdale!
The Langstrath was very busy and thankfully we had booked a table. Our meal was excellent and although the Scallops were off the menu we made do with King Prawns in Tempura Batter and this coupled with good beer and company made it an enjoyable evening. Just before we left “Tim nice but Dim” arrived and we left him demolishing his meal as we walked the mile back to Rosthwaite.
Another really enjoyable days walking coupled with meeting some really nice people who were to become friends.
Overnight Accommodation
Yew Craggs, Rosthwaite - www.yewcraggsborrowdale.co.uk
A comfortable stay in gorgeous surroundings just through the village towards Keswick – at the time of the publishing of this blog, the B&B is up for sale.
A comfortable stay in gorgeous surroundings just through the village towards Keswick – at the time of the publishing of this blog, the B&B is up for sale.
Day 2 Data
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Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Cumulative Time Maximum Ascent Total Ascent Cumulative Ascent |
15.4 miles
29.7 miles 8 hrs 13 min 15 hrs 6 min 1981 feet 3103 feet 6531 feet |