Goathland & Grosmont - Wednesday 16 November 2022
Route
Goathland - Lins Farm - Hollin Garth - Green End - Crag Cliff Wood - Grosmont - Holm House - Esk Valley - Beck Hole - Mallyan Spout - Goathland
Parking
Village Car Park in Goathland (Charge). The Grid Reference is NZ 83342 01326 and the nearest postcode is YO22 5LZ.
Mileage
9.2 miles
Terrain
Good paths throughout. The area in and around Mallyan Spout is rocky and when wet can be hazardous therefore care needs to be taken.
Weather
Overcast with sunny spells.
Time Taken
4hrs 40mins
Total Ascent
2595ft (791m)
Map
OL27 - North York Moors (Eastern Area)
Walkers
Dave, Angie & Fudge
Goathland - Lins Farm - Hollin Garth - Green End - Crag Cliff Wood - Grosmont - Holm House - Esk Valley - Beck Hole - Mallyan Spout - Goathland
Parking
Village Car Park in Goathland (Charge). The Grid Reference is NZ 83342 01326 and the nearest postcode is YO22 5LZ.
Mileage
9.2 miles
Terrain
Good paths throughout. The area in and around Mallyan Spout is rocky and when wet can be hazardous therefore care needs to be taken.
Weather
Overcast with sunny spells.
Time Taken
4hrs 40mins
Total Ascent
2595ft (791m)
Map
OL27 - North York Moors (Eastern Area)
Walkers
Dave, Angie & Fudge
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GPX File
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Route Map
Early morning in Goathland as we park up at the village car park. The village is a popular haunt for tourists as both Heartbeat & Harry Potter were filmed here. Nice and quiet in November thankfully.
Heading out of Goathland the route passes the village school which doubled as Aidensfield Primary in Heartbeat
A few hundred yards past the school we turned off to the right in the direction of Darnholm
Fudge has an arse about with the leaves as we head over fields towards Eller Beck Bridge
The steep, steep descent down to Eller Beck
Two bridges for the price of one. The single arch bridge over Eller Beck with the footbridge underneath.
Lins Farm ahead
None of that tin bath rubbish hereabouts - how about a concrete one instead!
The route passes through Green End Farm
A few hundred yards after Green End Farm there are a couple of options to reach Grosmont. Going straight on heads to the Esk Valley whilst turning right goes to Grosmont via Crag Cliff Wood. We headed to the right as we would be visiting the Esk Valley on the way back to Goathland via the Rail Trail.
Heading through Crag Cliff Wood
Fudge waits for a navigational decision at another signpost - we were heading to Murk Esk
The route reaches Murk Esk at a sign for St Matthew's Church in Grosmont
That's it Fudge - straight over the footbridge
Approaching St Matthew's Church in Grosmont
The entrance to the church. The Ukranian flag can be seen over the gatepost and inside the church they were holding a Coffee Morning to raise money for the people of Ukraine.
Nothing to see here - just a sheep made of metal. More about them later.
Arriving in Grosmont (pronounced "Growmont")
The tracks leading into the Grosmont Engine Sheds - the sheds can be reached via a path which can be seen on the extreme left
The old school which is now a Cafe. The school was hit by a German bomb in 1941.
The suspension bridge over Murk Esk
Grosmont Railway Bridge from the Suspension Bridge with Murk Esk below
Grosmont Station on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway
Looking down to the Engine Sheds from the level crossing
Platform 2 on Grosmont Station with a Diesel waiting to depart. At any time of the day this is a very pleasant place to sit and while away a couple of hours watching the world go by - plus there is an excellent cafe up ahead on the left.
Fudge whiles away a few minutes on the platform no doubt dreaming of sausages
On the platform is a memorial to the railway men and women who gave their lives in the service of Britain's Railways in the Second World War. The memorial was unveiled in May 1995.
Grosmont Station from the level crossing
In June 1967 a small group of local people formed the North Yorkshire Moors Railway Preservation Society. Its members were convinced that operating the line between Grosmont and Pickering could be viable if sufficient voluntary help was forthcoming. From one person in 1972 the numbers have grown with over 550 volunteers. Today the North Yorkshire Moors Railway Trust is a not-for-profit charitable organisation run as part of the local community. Day to day operation is carried out by volunteers with railway operations and business experience.
In June 1967 a small group of local people formed the North Yorkshire Moors Railway Preservation Society. Its members were convinced that operating the line between Grosmont and Pickering could be viable if sufficient voluntary help was forthcoming. From one person in 1972 the numbers have grown with over 550 volunteers. Today the North Yorkshire Moors Railway Trust is a not-for-profit charitable organisation run as part of the local community. Day to day operation is carried out by volunteers with railway operations and business experience.
From Grosmont it was time to head back to Goathland via the Rail Trail
The Rail Trail follows the original route of one of the country’s earliest railways, first opened in 1835 as a horse-drawn (later steam) line between Pickering, Grosmont, Goathland and Whitby. The railway connected this quiet valley to the wider world and industries soon sprang up along the route to exploit its natural resources, such as ironstone and whinstone. In the 1860s the section between Grosmont and Goathland was re-routed to follow what is the current line of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. Since then nature has reclaimed the line of the original railway, and peace and tranquillity now prevail.
The Rail Trail follows the original route of one of the country’s earliest railways, first opened in 1835 as a horse-drawn (later steam) line between Pickering, Grosmont, Goathland and Whitby. The railway connected this quiet valley to the wider world and industries soon sprang up along the route to exploit its natural resources, such as ironstone and whinstone. In the 1860s the section between Grosmont and Goathland was re-routed to follow what is the current line of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. Since then nature has reclaimed the line of the original railway, and peace and tranquillity now prevail.
The original railway tunnel prior to the coming of steam. The tunnel now provides pedestrian access to the Engine Sheds and was designed by 22 year old Frederick Swanwick, assistant to the Engineer George Stephenson. He was berated by the Railway Directors for "wasting" money on the castellated brickwork seen at this end. Originally built for the horse drawn line, when the steam engines came some 40 years after this tunnel was built, a second and much larger tunnel was constructed to the right which is the one in use today.
An original gradient post near the Engine Sheds
Looking over to Grosmont with the railway line and bridge visible in the centre of shot
An information board painting a very different picture of the landscape in the photograph above
Near the Engine Sheds were a couple of old boilers
I suppose it is based on how quick you walk and whether you want to take your time
The early part of the Rail Trail is littered with bits of old rolling stock just left to rust at the side of the line
Fudge gawps into the undergrowth as we continue along the cinder trackbed back to Goathland
The cottages at Esk Valley which were built for the ironstone miners in the 1870s
Just off to the right of the Rail Trail path is the Esk Valley Mine. The Esk Valley ironstone mine is actually located in the Murk Esk Valley and it is thought that the name sounded more enticing to prospective shareholders. Long covered by vegetation and largely forgotten, the workings and buildings have recently been uncovered.
At the entrance to the mine is this intricate wood carving
The covered over access to the mine shaft - the rectangular shape was unusual for its day as most were circular. The shaft was 200ft deep in order to reach the ironstone, which was worked on a small scale for around a decade. By the 1870s, the lease to extract ore had been transferred to the South Cleveland Ironworks Limited unfortunately the mine was not run at a profit and it finally closed in 1875. Many of the miners then went on to work in the local whinstone mines.
The enormous stone blocks would once have housed the stationary engine that was used to power the shaft's pumping and lifting gear
This circular structure is a Capstan and would have been used as an emergency winding system operated by two men
The seat at Esk Valley built to mark the Golden Jubilee of Elizabeth II
In 2009 the hamlet celebrated its 150th year of existence. The hamlet's name relates to the existence of the formation of The Esk Valley Iron Company, around 1859, even though the hamlet is situated in the Murk Esk Valley.
In 2009 the hamlet celebrated its 150th year of existence. The hamlet's name relates to the existence of the formation of The Esk Valley Iron Company, around 1859, even though the hamlet is situated in the Murk Esk Valley.
The Blacksmith and Joiners Shop with room for four families on the top floors, one of which the Mine Manager lived in.
The house as it was in the late 19th Century
Another view of the 25 Miners Cottages which are now private homes
Leaving Esk Valley we were now on the bed of the original horse drawn tramway which was built by George Stephenson and opened in 1836. In 1845 it was was bought by the railway financier and politician George Hudson who, because he controlled a significant part of the railway network in the 1840s became known as "The Railway King". Hudson improved the line in order to take steam locomotives and the line remained in regular use until 1865.
And that was exactly what this was built for - horse drawn tramway dismount
They may look like just old rocks slowly being reclaimed by mother nature but they were at one time "treasure". The disfigured black rock is actually ironstone from the nearby mines that was roasted in the open air in order to remove impurities and reduce its weight before being transported out of the area. This pile probably became too hot resulting in an unusable lump of fused ironstone and waste. Mistakes like this were expensive, ruining the iron inside the stone and therefore subsequently abandoned to the elements.
Crossing the North Bridge over Murk Esk
A substantial stone bridge once stood here in order to enable steam engines to use the line. However, the river periodically suffered damaging floods and the stone bridge was washed away with the large stone wall abutments being the only reminder that the bridge was ever here. A further timber bridge replaced it but it too was washed away in the 1930s. Since then the river here has only been crossed via a pedestrian footbridge.
A substantial stone bridge once stood here in order to enable steam engines to use the line. However, the river periodically suffered damaging floods and the stone bridge was washed away with the large stone wall abutments being the only reminder that the bridge was ever here. A further timber bridge replaced it but it too was washed away in the 1930s. Since then the river here has only been crossed via a pedestrian footbridge.
A little further down the path a twin arch bridge is reached where once steam engines crossed the Murk Esk.
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A reminder of the initial mode of transport along the line
The site of the former Beck Hole Ironworks.
Opened in 1859, with the peace and tranquillity of Beck Hole today it can be hard to imagine the fire, smoke and noise of the industry. Despite grand ambitions highlighted in the Whitby Gazette of 1860, the mining here was short-lived with the workings and associated cottages demolished within 30 years of being built. No trace exists today that it ever existed.
Opened in 1859, with the peace and tranquillity of Beck Hole today it can be hard to imagine the fire, smoke and noise of the industry. Despite grand ambitions highlighted in the Whitby Gazette of 1860, the mining here was short-lived with the workings and associated cottages demolished within 30 years of being built. No trace exists today that it ever existed.
Near to the Ironworks is the site of the former Beck Hole Station
Whilst the railway tracks and engines are long gone, the old trespassing warning signs remain
The bridge over Murk Esk into Combs Wood with the abutments of an older bridge clearly visible in the water
An old railway sign hangs on a gate near Beck Hole. The sign warns of the consequences of failing to shut the gate.
Clearly the residents of Beck Hole have a sense of humour judging by the contents of the telephone box. Imagine being a stranger in the village and coming across this late at night??
The Birch Hall Inn, Beck Hole. A Pub & village shop rolled into one with the interior being virtually unchanged since the 1930s. The picture in the centre of shot was painted by the artist Algernon Newton for the inn during his stay in Beck Hole in the 1940s.
Rupert who lives with his owner opposite the village pub
Ooh err Missus!
After visiting Beck Hole Angie walked back to Goathland whilst Fudge and I headed to Mallyan Spout
West Beck
To reach Mallyan Spout a path is followed along the bank of West Beck. Be careful, the path is rocky and slippy as the Spout is approached therefore take care on this section. Once we had visited the waterfall we would retrace our steps to here and then head to Goathland to meet up with Angie.
Mallyan Spout - with a vertical drop of 70ft it is the tallest waterfall in North Yorkshire
Mallyan Spout in full flow (click Play to view)
Heading back along West Beck to the signpost for Goathland. As can be seen, a short section needs to be negotiated over loose & slippy rocks. Whilst not overly dangerous, if you take your time then it is easy enough.
Now back in Goathland, the path from near Mallyan Spout brings you out at the hotel of the same name.
St Mary's Church in Goathland, scene of many a Heartbeat wedding - and funeral
The interior of St Mary's Church
The War Memorial in Goathland
The village shop in Goathland - lots of Heartbeat stuff for sale in here
Next door is another shop which was used as the location for Aidensfield's Post Office run by Oscar Blaketon
Over the road from the shops is the cottage used as the location for the Doctor's Surgery
The Goathland Hotel aka "The Aidensfield Arms"
No sign of Bernie, David, Claude or Vernon but lots of tat on sale
Whatever floats your boat I suppose.
Goathland Railway Station on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. Used as Aidensfield Station in Heartbeat and also as Hogsmeade in the Harry Potter films.
Visiting any station on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway is like going back in time and Goathland is no exception
The station is immaculate - even down to the red painted Fire Buckets
The water crane at Goathland Station - used for topping up the steam trains that pass through here