Suilven - MASARNEN RAMBLERS

Suilven - Wednesday 27 April 2022

Route

Canisp Road - Glencanisp Lodge - Suileag Bothy - Lochan Buidhe - Loch a Choire Dubh - Bealach Mor - Caisteal Liath (Suilven) - Bealach Mor - Meall Meadhonach - Meall Beag - Meall Meadhonach - Bealach Mor - Loch a Choire Dubh - Lochan Buidhe - Glencanisp Lodge - Canisp Road

Parking

Roadside parking on the left hand side of the Canisp Road which is about a mile from the turning off the A837 in Lochinver to Glencanisp Lodge. The roadside parking is about half a mile from Glencanisp Lodge. The Grid Reference is NC 107220 and the nearest postcode is IV27 4LU. There is also parking at Glencanisp Lodge (Donation) - see details below in the walk narrative. The Grid Reference for the parking at Glencanisp Lodge is NC 117221 - the postcode is the same.

Mileage

14.6 miles

Terrain

Forest tracks and mountain paths, some of which are visible on the ground but not marked on the OS Map. The climb to Bealach Mor whilst not overly difficult is steep and over rough stone, therefore it goes without saying that the descent on return to the valley floor requires care to be taken.

Despite looking to the contrary, the scramble to gain Suilven's summit of Caisteal Liath is without difficulty in good conditions. It would be a different proposition in winter therefore ensure you are experienced in such conditions, particularly snow and ice. In addition to Caisteal Liath, I also climbed Meall Meadhonach & Meall Beag and it should be stressed that both scrambles to gain each summit are exposed in some sections, particularly the ascent of the latter.

Weather

Gloriously sunny with light breezes and a couple of overcast spells.

Time Taken

9hrs

Total Ascent

3326ft (1014m)

Map

OS 442 Assynt & Lochinver (Kylesku & Inchnadamph)

Walkers

Dave, Angie & Fudge

GPX File

gpx suilven_27_april_2022_actual.gpx

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Route Map

The parking area west of Glencanisp Lodge - the donation box for the parking fee is to the left just out of shot

Suilven's majestic shape dominates the view from the Car Park looking over Loch Druim Suardalain. Suilven translates as "Pillar Mountain".

From the Car Park the route heads along the access track for Glencanisp Lodge

The small wooded island on Loch Druim Suardalain

Just over half a mile from the start we arrive at the entrance to Glencanisp Lodge

Glencanisp Lodge

Designed by William Lewis, Glencanisp Lodge is a classic Victorian sporting lodge with a variety of old and modern buildings in its immediate environment. The original building was built in 1850 as a farm house for the Duke of Sutherland’s new sheep farm on Glencanisp. Having had various owners over the years, in 2005 the Vestey Family sold the Glencanisp and Drumrunie Estates to the Assynt Foundation, which mounted a community buy out on behalf of the people of Assynt. Today, Glencanisp Lodge is run as a hospitality business with a dozen bedrooms set in a unique location, and after substantial refurbishment is due to reopen in 2022.

Looking to Suilven from the jetty on Loch Druim Suardalain near Glencanisp Lodge

Near Glencanisp Lodge there is additional parking should there be no spaces at the start of this walk on the Canisp Road. As can be seen, the parking is by donation - AF stands for "Assynt Foundation"

From the eastern end of Glencanisp Lodge the route continues along a track - the mountain in the centre of shot is Canisp

Looking over Loch na h-Airigh Fraoich to Suilven - it was at this point Fudge turned around as if to say "Are we really going to climb up that?"

The beauty about starting fairly early is that it always feels as though you have the walk to yourself - today felt no different.

The path junction for Suileag Bothy. We had heard many stories about what a beautiful location the mountain retreat was in therefore decided to break off from our route to visit it. The path junction is at Grid Reference NC 14746 20967 and the Bothy can be located just under a quarter of a mile to the north east from this point. The Grid Reference of the Bothy is NC 150 211.

Approaching Suileag Bothy

Angie & Fudge outside Suileag Bothy - the building is maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association

The primitive and basic interior of Suileag Bothy - complete with Dart Board. Despite its remoteness, it is sadly not free from the mindless pond life that think it is ok to deface walls etc with graffiti.

Imagine waking up to that view - Suilven from Suileag Bothy. There are 3 distinctive aspects to the summit ridge - to the extreme left is Meall Beag with Meall Meadhonach to the right of it. The main summit of Suilven is to the far right and this is called Caisteal Liath.

A panorama of Suilven looking over Lochan Buidhe

Suilven & Canisp from Lochan Buidhe (click Play to view)

Passing Lochan Buidhe, Fudge decided it was time for more swimming

At Grid Reference NC 16560 20256 is the first of two path junctions - at both junctions head to the right.

The second path junction is at Grid Reference NC 16763 19654. Again we headed to the right in the direction of Suilven - the path to the left continues on through the wilderness to eventually reach the A835 near Elphin some 7 or so miles distant.

The end to end ridge on Suilven - we were so looking forward to finally getting to climb up there

Looking over Loch na Gainimh with Canisp rising up to the left

Nothing like a good old arse about eh Fudge? (click Play to view)

Climbing to Loch a' Choire Dub and Bealach Mor - the latter which would be our access point to reach Suilven

Looking back down the path from the top of the rise near Loch a' Choire Dub

Loch a' Choire Dub ahead with Bealach Mor in the centre of shot. It looks a daunting climb from here but in these conditions is not technical or difficult. The descent however, requires care to be taken.

Contouring around the western side of Loch a' Choire Dub with Bealach Mor to the left

The lower part of the ascent up Bealach Mor

Fudge and I look down to Angie who is making her way up the initial ascent of Bealach Mor. To the rear left is Loch na Barrack with Loch a' Choire Dub to the right - our outward path is to the right of the strip of land between the two lochs.

Continuing the climb up the Bealach. Up to now the day had been overcast and the mist did threaten to engulf Suilven, however this looked to be clearing thankfully.

The gradient became steeper as height was gained

Angie continues to climb steeply as I pause for breath to capture the shot. In the distance to the centre right is Quinag.

A full view of Canisp from the ascent of Bealach Mor

Near the top of the Bealach the route reaches a rocky promontory - and what views!

The top of Bealach Mor looking east to Meall Meadhonach

The view from the col of Bealach Mor is just superb in all directions. This view is looking south east to Cul Mor which is to the left with the unmistakable outline of Stac Pollaidh left of centre. The body of water is Loch Sionasgaig.

At the top of Bealach Mor we turned to the right to head for Suilven's summit, Caisteal Leath. The path then crosses the remains of a drystone wall and it is thought this might have been built in exchange for famine relief during the Highland potato famines. As can be seen, the level courses of stones are maintained even though the wall is at an absurd gradient. Beyond the wall the path begins ascending towards the summit, winding to and fro with some easy scrambling in the early section.

Looking back down to the wall gap taken from the first scramble with the imposing Meall Meadhonach rising majestically above

As is usual, Fudge took the climbing and scrambling in his doggy stride

At the top of the first scramble the path levels out to reveal the final ascent to Suilven's summit

A close up of the final scramble - apart from a couple of people at the start these were the first walkers we had seen today

To reach the final scramble a short transit needs to be made over a causeway. There are steep drops either side but the causeway is wide enough for two people therefore safe to cross.

The steep drop from the left hand side of the causeway

Making my way on the first of my ascents up the final scramble. The ascent was unknown to us therefore I did a quick recce to the summit just to make sure it was "Fudge proof" and wasn't too exposed.

The view from the causeway below the final ascent scramble (click Play to view)

Half way up the final scramble looking back down to the causeway and to Angie & Fudge

Meanwhile back down below, Fudge eyes my progress with extreme caution

After an exhilarating scramble I reached the summit plateau of Suilven on Caisteal Liath

The summit of Suilven on Caisteal Liath

The view from the summit of Suilven on Caisteal Liath (click Play to view)

Up on the summit of Suilven looking north west along the ridge

Having spent a couple of minutes on the summit it was time to head back down and meet up with Angie & Fudge. It is safe to say that the view to the commanding presence of Meall Meadhonach and Meall Beag is absolutely fantastic.

A solo Mexican Wave from the summit of Suilven. Meanwhile, Fudge's disinterest in my progress was clearly evident once he realised I had left my rucksack down below with his lunch safely inside it.

Making my way back down the scramble

What's this? I wonder why he has perked up? Must be lunchtime.

Making my way back down from the summit (click Play to view)

Lunch over and with Angie & Fudge in tow, we made our way back up to Suilven's summit

During the second climb to the summit we met a chap who was flying a drone and he asked if we would like some pics of our ascent. I'm not a big fan of drones finding them intrusive and noisy however it must be agreed that the footage they give is just superb. The pic above shows the three of us at the bottom of the final scramble.

Another drone pic of us at the bottom of the scramble

Once again up on the summit of Suilven

Another drone pic looking right the way along Suilven's magnificent eastern ridge. The body of water to the right is Loch Veyatie.

Fudge on the summit of Suilven, Caisteal Liath looking to Cul Mor & Stac Pollaidh

Worth the long walk in to see a view like that

The glorious panorama from the summit of Suilven (click Play to view)

Angie & Fudge on the summit of Suilven

"I'll just keep a careful eye on the old fella until he is safely down"

Crossing the narrow neck of the causeway

Once back down at the col of Bealach Mor I left Angie & Fudge at the cairn and headed along the western ridge to climb Meall Meadhonach and Meall Beag which are behind me.

Fudge & Angie wait for me back at the bealach and enjoy the splendid views on offer (click Play to view)

Looking back to the first part of my transit to Meall Meadhonach. From Bealach Mor the going is ok with some mild scrambling to reach the domed top right of centre. From the domed top is a steep rocky section to a col then a similar climb up the other side.

Looking back along the ridge to Caisteal Liath from the summit of Meall Meadhonach

The summit of Meall Meadhonach looking to the imposing scramble to gain the summit of Meall Beag

From the eastern edge of Meall Meadhonach was a lengthy and very steep scramble into a col followed by an even steeper climb out of it. I really took my time over the descent & ascent of Meall Beag and stopped often to take in the fantastic views on offer. Whilst the scramble to gain the summit looks precarious the only difficult and technical section was the last 30 or so feet.

Looking back to Meall Meadhonach and the steep scramble down to the col

The last 30 feet or so to gain the summit of Meall Beag - it was here that I was glad of my long legs. If you are not good with exposure then Meall Beag is best left alone.

Meall Meadhonach & Caisteal Liath from the summit of Meall Beag - it was now time to make my way back.

Canisp & Loch na Gainimh from the summit of Meall Meadhonach

Meanwhile Fudge waits patiently at Bealach Mor for my safe return

Making the final descent to join Angie & Fudge down at Bealach Mor - and what a great view of Suilven that is eh?

Fudge spots me making my way down the final few yards back to Bealach Mor

It was really hard to tear ourselves away from the magnificence of Suilven but it was now time to go back to the start by way of the same route. Once more we we were back at the rock promontory which was now bathed in the sun. We knew the descent would be steep and that we would need to tread carefully whilst transiting over the loose stone.

And here we go - hold on to your hats, and anything else loose thereabouts

Unimpressed by the steep gradient, Fudge poses for the camera confident in the fact that he has "four paw drive" and that this sort of terrain is a doddle.