Day 4 - Sunday 3 November 2024

Seahouses to Belford (11 miles)

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We arrived in Seahouses fairly early and prior to having breakfast in the town we had a wander over to Pace Hill

Pace Hill is a tiny tidal island located immediately to the east of Seahouses Harbour. It is accessible at low tide by a short walk across the rocks.  The island has a very small amount of grass growing on it and this small building, which is an old powder house.  This was built to store gunpowder, used in blasting, when the Long Pier and New Harbour were being constructed at Seahouses in 1886.  Pace Hill was chosen for safety purposes as the location for the powder house, as it is well away from any other buildings.

The powder house is built of sandstone.  It has a rectangular base, straight walls and a barrel vaulted roof.  It is a grade 2 listed building and it was repaired in 2012.  The repairs were carried out by Beadnell based Len Smith Builders for the North Sunderland Harbour Commissioners and half the costs were paid by Northumberland County Council.  The entrance is secured by a locked gate, which was donated in memory of Thelma Archbold (Seahouses born and bred), who died in 2014.

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The locked powder house gate
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Looking west from Pace Hill towards Seahouses Harbour
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Leaving the town we headed along the road initially.....................
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.........and then dropped down to the beach at St Aidan's Dunes via a short walled path
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The Farne Islands from St Aidan's Dunes

​The Farne Islands are a group of 15 and 20 islands depending on the level of the tide. They are scattered about 1.5 to 4.75 miles from the mainland, divided into the Inner Group and the Outer Group. The main islands in the Inner Group are Inner Farne, Knoxes Reef, the East and West Wideopens (all joined together on very low tides), and (somewhat separated) the Megstone; the main islands in the Outer Group are Staple Island, the Brownsman, the North and South Wamses, Big Harcar, and the Longstone. The two groups are separated by Staple Sound. The highest point, on Inner Farne, is 62 feet (19 m).​ The islands have no permanent population, the only residents being National Trust assistant rangers during part of the year; they live in the old pele tower on the Inner Farne (the largest and closest inshore of the islands), and the lighthouse cottage on the Brownsman in the outer group.
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The small hamlet of Monks House

By the late 18th century Monks House was an important base for sea fishing, with many cobles used in the herring and white fisheries trade. Most of the buildings seen here today date from the 19th century and at that time one of the buildings was a tavern called St Cuthbert's Inn. During the 1950's Eric and Dorothy Ennion ran their own Bird Observatory and Field Centre, Monks' House, at Seahouses in Northumberland. Although part of the official observatory network, it was run as a business and was an entirely private venture. The conservationist, comedian and actor Bill Oddie (him of The Goodies) studied at the observatory during his youth.
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The approach to Redbarns Links via Greenhill Rocks
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Redbarns Links
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Bamburgh Castle now in view as we approach the village
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The north western end of Bamburgh Castle. The structure to the right is the Bamburgh Castle Windmill. Built in 1800, the Windmill was constructed to grind corn however for the past several years the Windmill has been used by The Bamburgh Research Project as staff offices and as a storage facility for all of the finds being discovered within the castle. 
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The southern wall of Bamburgh Castle
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A break in the clouds as the sun shines upon the castle 

​Once home to the kings of ancient Northumbria, Bamburgh Castle is one of Northumberland's most iconic buildings. The Bamburgh castle we see today is a relatively recent structure, built by famed industrialist the first Lord Armstrong in 1894 at vast cost. Lord Armstrong was also responsible for building Cragside House, Gardens & Estates which is nearby at Rothbury. During its more recent history, Bamburgh Castle welcomed Royal guests and English kings, one of whom, Edward IV destroyed it in the Wars of the Roses. Lord Armstrong's restoration saved it from ruin and the castle provides an ancestral home to the Armstrong family to this day as well as a venue for weddings etc and it is also open to the public.​
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Bamburgh War Memorial which sits below the castle walls
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We have been in here a few times and today would be no exception - as can be seen below, the Caramel Cake was excellent
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Fuelling in Bamburgh
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St Aidan's Well on Bamburgh Green
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St Aidan's Church, Bamburgh

A place of worship was founded on this site of the present church in 635 by Saint Aidan.  St Aidan was called to Bamburgh from Iona by King Oswald to establish Christianity in his newly united kingdom of Northumbria. No trace of that wooden building can be now be seen - other than perhaps a beam in the Baptistery.  Tradition has it that this is the beam that St Aidan was leaning against when he died and it is said to have miraculously survived two fires.

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At the southern end of the church is St Aidan's Crypt

Displays in the church and crypt tell the story of an early Christian cemetery revealed by a storm in 1817 beside Bamburgh Castle. Archaeologists found the graves of more than a hundred people who had lived here around 1,400 years ago. They carefully studied the remains and then laid them to rest in the crypt in 2016.
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The interior of St Aidan's Crypt
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The monument to Grace Darling in the churchyard of St Aidan's Church

Born in Bamburgh in November 1815, Grace Darling was the seventh child of nine and lived her early years on the Farne Islands where her father was a lighthouse keeper, firstly on Brownsman and later on Longstone Island. At approximately 4 in the morning of 7 September 1838 during a violent storm, the steamship Forfarshire struck the Big Harcar rock on the Farnes and over 40 lives were lost. Grace saw the wreck half a mile from the Longstone and at 7am spotted survivors. Her father thought it unlikely that the conditions would allow the launching of the Seahouses Lifeboat therefore he and Grace launched their coble (a small fishing boat) in the atrocious weather. The strength of the tide and wind forced them to row for nearly a mile to reach the survivors. Her father then went ashore leaving Grace alone to keep the coble in position. Together they took five survivors back to the lighthouse whereby her father and two of the crew returned to fetch the remainder. Grace became a national heroine however sadly she died four years later of Tuberculosis.
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Inside the memorial canopy is an effigy of Grace Darling complete with a coble oar made from local stone. This memorial was sculptured in 1885 and replaced the original which had weathered very quickly. The original Portland Stone version made in 1844 is housed inside the church.
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A few metres away from the memorial is the Darling family plot housing the graves of Grace and her family
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The Darling family gravestone
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The original Portland Stone memorial to Grace Darling
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The beautiful interior of St Aidan's Church
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The effigy of the mysterious Bamburgh Knight, thought to be a 14th Century Crusader is housed in a tomb recess
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Across the road from the church is the Grace Darling Museum
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Looking back to Bamburgh Castle from Blackrocks Point
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Stag Rock at Blackrocks Point

Stag Rock is located near the lighthouse at Blackrocks Point. It's exact history is unknown, but the area has been known as 'Stag Rock' since at least the late 1800s. Local legend has it that a stag jumped into the sea here, rather than be killed by hunters pursuing it from nearby Spindlestone. There is also folklore in which St Aidan saved a stag from a pack of hounds by making it invisible. The paintwork of the stag is refreshed periodically, sometimes when the lighthouse is being painted.
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Blackrocks Point Lighthouse

The lighthouse was built in 1910 to guide shipping both passing along the Northumberland coast and in the waters around the Farne Islands. It was extensively modernised in 1975 and is now monitored from the Trinity House Operations and Planning Centre in Harwich. It is the most northerly land-based lighthouse in England.
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Budle Bay
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We were now entering Lindisfarne Nature Reserve which meant we would be heading inland shortly. The path from Budle Bay is out of bounds at certain times of the year meaning that the Coast Path is diverted inland.
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Heading along Budle Point
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An old lime kiln at Budle Point
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The confirmation sign detailing the diversion during the months of June & July
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Near Waren Mill the Duck decided to have an arse about
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Entering Waren Mill - the route passes along the verge for a few hundred yards
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Sadly not today
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From Waren Mill the route heads along the edge of fields to the left of Easington Quarry
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Gave him a quick call and we were able to cross the line safely
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Nearing Belford the route passes through the silos of an industrial unit
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Crossing the A1 into Belford
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Passing the Fire Station on the way back to our Caravan in Belford

​GPX Files
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Day 4 Data
Mileage

Cumulative Mileage

Time 

Total Ascent
11 miles

50.4miles

4hrs 50mins

833ft (254m)