Day 5 - Tuesday 5 November 2024
Belford to Fenwick (9 miles)
Set off from the door today although I had to be up early to drive our car to Fenwick. Once I had dropped the car off, I caught the bus back to Belford. This meant we would have transport back to the start as there was no bus available.
Entering Belford from South Meadows
Belford gained status as a coaching town as it was on the main route for mail delivery. The Blue Bell Inn located at the market square was therefore built to serve as a Coaching Inn.
Belford gained status as a coaching town as it was on the main route for mail delivery. The Blue Bell Inn located at the market square was therefore built to serve as a Coaching Inn.
The entrance to Belford Hall
A Grade 1 Listed Building, Belford Hall was built for the Squires of Belford, who were owners of the entire village. When the estate and village were sold by auction in the 1920s, Belford Hall became neglected. It was requisitioned in WW II but afterwards fell into disrepair. It was rescued from a ruinous state by Northern Heritage Trust and, after an award winning restoration, converted into private residential apartments in 1984 – 86. It is administered by Belford Hall Management Company Ltd. The apartments are all private homes and the residents are naturally anxious that their privacy is respected. However, in recognition of the architectural significance of Belford Hall and of its historical importance in the development of Belford, the communal areas of the interior and of the grounds of Belford Hall can be viewed, but by prior appointment only.
A Grade 1 Listed Building, Belford Hall was built for the Squires of Belford, who were owners of the entire village. When the estate and village were sold by auction in the 1920s, Belford Hall became neglected. It was requisitioned in WW II but afterwards fell into disrepair. It was rescued from a ruinous state by Northern Heritage Trust and, after an award winning restoration, converted into private residential apartments in 1984 – 86. It is administered by Belford Hall Management Company Ltd. The apartments are all private homes and the residents are naturally anxious that their privacy is respected. However, in recognition of the architectural significance of Belford Hall and of its historical importance in the development of Belford, the communal areas of the interior and of the grounds of Belford Hall can be viewed, but by prior appointment only.
The Old Court House in Belford
The building was erected in 1867 and would have served as the Court House for the village complete with cells for housing miscreants. It replaced the existing "lock-up" house which was a temporary detention facility, mainly for drunks or to hold people being brought before the local magistrate.
The building was erected in 1867 and would have served as the Court House for the village complete with cells for housing miscreants. It replaced the existing "lock-up" house which was a temporary detention facility, mainly for drunks or to hold people being brought before the local magistrate.
The former coaching inn, The Blue Bell Hotel is situated in the Market Place. It is nice to see that the old advertising has been preserved.
The Market Place in Belford
In 1742 Abraham Dixon purchased a licence to hold a weekly market and two annual fairs at Belford. The market would have been a place to sell mainly corn, much of which was sold for exportation.
In 1742 Abraham Dixon purchased a licence to hold a weekly market and two annual fairs at Belford. The market would have been a place to sell mainly corn, much of which was sold for exportation.
The Market Cross in Belford
The Grade II listed cross dates from the 18th or early 19th century, and the base possibly earlier
The Grade II listed cross dates from the 18th or early 19th century, and the base possibly earlier
St Mary's Church in Belford
Belford War Memorial
The building to the rear of the Memorial is the former Belford Community Club. Originally built as “Scotch Church” in 1776, it ceased to function as a church in 1898 before being converted to use as a village hall. It was rededicated as the Belford Memorial Hall in 1922, before being renamed as Belford Community Club in the 1980s. In 2023 the building was approved to be demolished to make way for housing but as of late 2024 it was still standing. The building is now considered "a blight on the community" by Belford's Parish Councillors.
The building to the rear of the Memorial is the former Belford Community Club. Originally built as “Scotch Church” in 1776, it ceased to function as a church in 1898 before being converted to use as a village hall. It was rededicated as the Belford Memorial Hall in 1922, before being renamed as Belford Community Club in the 1980s. In 2023 the building was approved to be demolished to make way for housing but as of late 2024 it was still standing. The building is now considered "a blight on the community" by Belford's Parish Councillors.
Westhall Farm
Westhall is a privately owned 19th-century castellated house now in use as a farm. It is on a site with older historical associations. The present house was built in 1837 in a castellated Gothic style. It has been suggested that Westhall is the site of a much earlier Motte & Bailey Castle however this is disputed as it is considered there is a more dramatic, better defended but still easily accessible site at Chapel Hill a quarter of a mile to the north.
Westhall is a privately owned 19th-century castellated house now in use as a farm. It is on a site with older historical associations. The present house was built in 1837 in a castellated Gothic style. It has been suggested that Westhall is the site of a much earlier Motte & Bailey Castle however this is disputed as it is considered there is a more dramatic, better defended but still easily accessible site at Chapel Hill a quarter of a mile to the north.
Heading over fields on Soldier's Dean - next stop Swinhoe Farm
The route drops gently down to Swinhoe Farm Riding Centre
The route passes right through the centre of Swinhoe Farm - there is a need to be careful here as the St Oswald's Way carries straight on whereby the Northumberland Coast Path (& The St Cuthbert's Way) heads to the left. Both routes converge again to the north east of St Cuthbert's Cave. Of course, if a short cut is taken and you remain on The St Oswald's Way, then you would miss out on visiting St Cuthbert's Cave.
As we were passing through the Riding Centre we were greeted by the very handsome Ollie, a 16 year old Connemara Pony. These lovely horses originate from Ireland and are known for their athleticism, versatility and good disposition. He was a lovely and very friendly chap.
Some of the other residents of Swinhoe Farm
A few minutes out of Swinhoe Farm and we came across Swinhoe Farm's current "King of the Castle" Champion
A downed helium balloon in a field near Swinhoe Lake. I climbed the fence and stuck it in my rucksack to dispose of later. I do wish people would not let off balloons, lanterns and the like - many livestock have suffered as they do like to eat them, often resulting in the animal's death.
Something tells me this old barn will soon be engulfed by nature
Passing through Virgin Hill Wood
Below Cockenheugh at Grid Reference NU 06469 34328 the path splits - left drops down to Hazelrigg whilst we would be heading to the right towards St Cuthbert's Cave
Weathered sandstone rocks below Cockenheugh
Entering St Cuthbert's Cave Wood
Proof enough that the path was shared by two of the UK's Long Distance Trails. We completed The St Cuthbert's Way in 2020 and our story of this lovely walk can be found here.
At Grid Reference NU 05828 35112 a path heads off to the right towards St Cuthbert's Cave which can be seen ahead
A group selfie at St Cuthbert's Cave - it really is an amazing sight which, unless you know it is there is completely unexpected. For the sharp eyed amongst you and are fans of the series "Vera", the episode Tuesday's Child featured St Cuthbert's Cave.
Once owned by the Leather family, the area was for a time the family burial place, being consecrated in 1936. Memorials to members of the family can be seen on isolated sandstone outcrops. Some would say that this is graffiti but at least they owned the land. In 1981 the wood was given to the National Trust, who manage it today.
St Cuthbert's Cave is basically a huge Sandstone overhang and is the place where the monks rested whilst carrying St Cuthbert's body during their flight from Lindisfarne following repeated viking raids. The cave is certainly worth a visit and sits in a beautiful clearing with many large Sandstone rocks adorning the area. Each time we have been here we have had the place to ourselves which makes it all the more special.
Climbing out of St Cuthbert's Cave Wood the route passes a small outcrop to the left
Passing over field paths towards Fawcett Hill. Having walked over this stretch a few times now and encountered stroppy bovines on each occasion, it was a pleasant surprise to see they were elsewhere today.
Passing the small unnamed lake below Dow Crag
Not far now as we head through Shiellow Wood
The pleasant track through Shiellow Wood
At Grid Reference NU 05933 37148 the route leaves the main track
Exiting Shiellow Wood the route enters Dolly Gibson's Lonnen. Despite extensive research by several people (including me), no-one seems to know why this stretch of the path is so named or even who Dolly Gibson was. It’s nice that, in these days of information being available every second of the day, there are still mysteries such as this.
Approaching Fenwick along the side of Old Wood
The descent into Fenwick. This minor road was once the Great North Road until the A1 replaced it in the 19th Century.
Hello, this wasn't here last time we visited. Fenwick Village Hall now houses, you've guessed it - a Cafe, and they were open!!
With no deadline to catch a bus as our car was a hundred yards away, we partook of some fuelling - namely a Coconut & Raspberry Slice (Angie) and a Lemon Muffin (Dave). It was bloody gorgeous and topped off a cracking days walking.
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Day 5 Data
Mileage
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Total Ascent
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Total Ascent
9 miles
59.4 miles
4hrs
787ft (240m)
59.4 miles
4hrs
787ft (240m)