Day 5 - Sunday 12 May 2019
Keld to Bowes (13.3 miles)
Awoke to another superb day with the weather - warm, windless and with a beautiful "Simpson" sky up above us. Breakfast at Butt House is never anything else - noisy with the chatter of excited walkers ready to head off on another superb days walking. It was whilst messing about with Fudge at East Gill Force just outside Keld village that my Pennine Journey almost came to a sudden end. I slipped on a rock on the edge of the waterline and went straight up in the air landing heavily on my back. Had I not been wearing my rucksack I would have injured my back and rear end pretty badly - as it was I just had the wind knocked out of me and was alright after a few minutes.
With the excitement over it was time to get on with the walk. From Keld the route heads across Stonesdale Moor over sometimes boggy ground to reach the pub at Tan Hill which claims bragging rights that at 1732ft above sea level (528m) it is the highest public house in Great Britain. With nothing else to do today apart from arrive in Bowes at a suitable time we participated of a drink, crisps and cake and sat outside the pub in the company of bikers, cyclists & walkers plus some dope flying a drone at low level.
As is usual, the transit over Sleightholme Moor was boggy in part but not too onerous and it was great once more to be out on our own over this barren and featureless section of the walk. Regaining signs of life at Sleightholme Farm, the route crossed the beck of the same name to head up to Trough Heads where we took the route of the Pennine Way Bowes Loop. A long trudge into Bowes but we finally arrived via the lovely Castle ruins. Our digs tonight were in The Ancient Unicorn and it was good to see the pub open again after a long period closed. Before checking in we sampled a welcome Cider in the Courtyard and then settled into our room opposite the pub entrance. After a quick shower and change we had a lovely meal - a superb roast meat platter. Remainder of the evening was spent sorting out kit and relaxing.
With the excitement over it was time to get on with the walk. From Keld the route heads across Stonesdale Moor over sometimes boggy ground to reach the pub at Tan Hill which claims bragging rights that at 1732ft above sea level (528m) it is the highest public house in Great Britain. With nothing else to do today apart from arrive in Bowes at a suitable time we participated of a drink, crisps and cake and sat outside the pub in the company of bikers, cyclists & walkers plus some dope flying a drone at low level.
As is usual, the transit over Sleightholme Moor was boggy in part but not too onerous and it was great once more to be out on our own over this barren and featureless section of the walk. Regaining signs of life at Sleightholme Farm, the route crossed the beck of the same name to head up to Trough Heads where we took the route of the Pennine Way Bowes Loop. A long trudge into Bowes but we finally arrived via the lovely Castle ruins. Our digs tonight were in The Ancient Unicorn and it was good to see the pub open again after a long period closed. Before checking in we sampled a welcome Cider in the Courtyard and then settled into our room opposite the pub entrance. After a quick shower and change we had a lovely meal - a superb roast meat platter. Remainder of the evening was spent sorting out kit and relaxing.
Leaving Keld we regained the route at the bridge over the River Swale
The bridge over the River Swale
Fudge at East Gill Force - just to the right of him was where my Pennine Journey nearly came to an abrupt end
The junction of paths near East Gill Force - we were off on the Pennine Way to the left.
The path to the right is the Coast to Coast Path which forks off left at an old tractor just below Crackpot Hall.
The path to the right is the Coast to Coast Path which forks off left at an old tractor just below Crackpot Hall.
The Coast to Coast path can be seen heading off as we leave East Gill Force and the lovely village of Keld
Looking over to Keld - a place Wainwright said "where time is measured in centuries". Butt House is just left of centre.
Heading over Stonesdale Moor towards Tan Hill. The building in the distance is Frith Lodge which is a B&B.
Stonesdale Moor - just a big load of 'nowt' out there
Fudge spots the Tan Hill pub in the distance
Another spot we have been to many times - superb cake there today at Great Britain's highest inn
Sunday is always popular here - lots of walkers, cyclists & bikers today
The Tan Hill snow plough - often called into action being that the pub is 1732 feet above sea level
8 miles to Bowes.
Not too bad although the next 4 or so miles was over Sleightholme Moor which has a boggy reputation although to be fair it wasn't too bad today
Not too bad although the next 4 or so miles was over Sleightholme Moor which has a boggy reputation although to be fair it wasn't too bad today
Another big load of nothing out there as we cross Sleightholme Moor
There were a few cairns dotted about to help navigate over the moor although they should never be relied upon.
The bridge over Frumming Beck
Once Frumming Beck is crossed the route joins a good track that leads to Sleightholme Farm
Intake Bridge which crosses Sleightholme Beck
Trough Heads - this is the point where walkers undertaking the Pennine Way either carry on to accommodation in Baldersdale/Middleton or take the Bowes Loop which drops them in Bowes. Both routes meet up again not that far from Low Birk Hatt which was the home of Hannah Hauxwell.
Another footbridge to be crossed - this time Cardwell Bridge near West Charity Farm..............
........ and another one, this time near Swinholme just before Bowes
Bowes Castle
As usual if he can't jump it or limbo under it then Fudge waits patiently at the gate
As usual if he can't jump it or limbo under it then Fudge waits patiently at the gate
The Keep of Bowes Castle
The medieval castle was probably built between 1171 & 1187 on the site of the Roman Fort of Lavatris. It was of strategic importance to Henry II to repel Scottish invaders which it eventually had to do in 1174. Robert the Bruce came and had another go between 1314 & 1322. By 1341 the castle was reported to be badly in need of repair and it is thought that stone from the castle was used to build other buildings nearby.
The medieval castle was probably built between 1171 & 1187 on the site of the Roman Fort of Lavatris. It was of strategic importance to Henry II to repel Scottish invaders which it eventually had to do in 1174. Robert the Bruce came and had another go between 1314 & 1322. By 1341 the castle was reported to be badly in need of repair and it is thought that stone from the castle was used to build other buildings nearby.
Another view of Bowes Castle. Despite its decayed appearance it is still a very impressive building.
The Ancient Unicorn - only one thing for it, Cider & Beer. Fudge clearly knows that he is 'fresh out" as he cannot have either.
Out all gash
Day 5 Data
Mileage
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Total Ascent
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Total Ascent
13.3 miles
59.2 miles
6hrs 5mins
1089ft (332m)
59.2 miles
6hrs 5mins
1089ft (332m)