Day 20 - Monday 27 May 2019
Sedbergh to Chapel le Dale (14 miles)
Despite the Hotel being the most expensive of our walk we had a really lovely stay in The Black Bull - nothing was too much trouble for the professional staff. However this morning their food supplier let them down big time - no sausages, however to compensate us for this they very kindly loaded us up with fresh pastries for the day. Outside the weather was humid and overcast as we headed down through the town towards Millthrop Bridge. Near Ellers we came across a group of ramblers sat by the side of the road stuffing their faces with cake.
We then handrailed the River Dee all the way to the village of Dent - a beautiful place whose cobbled streets and pristine old houses take you back in time. Visited the fantastic cafe at the Dent Heritage Centre where the Lemon Drizzle cake on offer was delicious. Suitably nourished we immediately had the chance to work it off on the tough climb from Mill Bridge to Boat of the Wold which is the right turn to begin the ascent of Whernside. Thankfully the ascent to the highest of the famous Yorkshire 3 Peaks is gradual until the last 800 yards or so where it steepens. However during the ascent the weather really deteriorated - driving rain and strong winds greeted our arrival at the summit which was adorned with the detritus of flags & memorials which in my view have no place up there. There was relief from the wind at the top in the form of a wall shelter therefore we hunkered down for a snack but soon headed off to get lower down as soon as possible.
The rain continued to drench us for most of our descent and we picked our way down in between the myriad of lumps of stone as there appeared to be a lot of work going on to repair this well used path. Just before Bruntscar Farm we passed 2 walkers who were just as drenched as us and were walking the Yorkshire 3 Peaks. The female of the two appeared to be pretty hacked off with the fact that they still had to climb Ingleborough and then there was the extremely long walk back to Horton in Ribblesdale. The weather did not look like it was improving any time soon therefore we wished them well. At Bruntscar Farm the descent levelled out and it was to our surprise that on a day like today that an Ice Cream Van was out - if I was him I would be back at home with my feet up in front of the fire.
The route from Bruntscar then continued along a tarmac farm track to reach Philpin from where it was a short walk to respite from the rain - journeys end at The Old Hill Inn which dates from 1615. We were met and welcomed by the owner Sabena and whilst the pub was not due to open until 6, duly charged our glasses with foaming ale. Bless her, she even lit the fire so we could make a start on drying our sopping wet kit. After settling in we received a call from our good friends Colin & Deborah who informed us they were stood outside the pub waiting to surprise us but couldn't get in as the pub was shut!! We had a quick word with Sabena who opened up early therefore we were able to enjoy a drink together - what a nice surprise. Deborah & Colin stayed for Dinner and we had a really good evening together in their company - the meal was exceptionally good, helped enormously by the fact that Sabena's husband Colin was a very talented Pâtissier and sugar sculptor. Saying goodbye to our surprise guests we spent the remainder of the evening having a really good sort out of kit ready for Ingleborough tomorrow.
We then handrailed the River Dee all the way to the village of Dent - a beautiful place whose cobbled streets and pristine old houses take you back in time. Visited the fantastic cafe at the Dent Heritage Centre where the Lemon Drizzle cake on offer was delicious. Suitably nourished we immediately had the chance to work it off on the tough climb from Mill Bridge to Boat of the Wold which is the right turn to begin the ascent of Whernside. Thankfully the ascent to the highest of the famous Yorkshire 3 Peaks is gradual until the last 800 yards or so where it steepens. However during the ascent the weather really deteriorated - driving rain and strong winds greeted our arrival at the summit which was adorned with the detritus of flags & memorials which in my view have no place up there. There was relief from the wind at the top in the form of a wall shelter therefore we hunkered down for a snack but soon headed off to get lower down as soon as possible.
The rain continued to drench us for most of our descent and we picked our way down in between the myriad of lumps of stone as there appeared to be a lot of work going on to repair this well used path. Just before Bruntscar Farm we passed 2 walkers who were just as drenched as us and were walking the Yorkshire 3 Peaks. The female of the two appeared to be pretty hacked off with the fact that they still had to climb Ingleborough and then there was the extremely long walk back to Horton in Ribblesdale. The weather did not look like it was improving any time soon therefore we wished them well. At Bruntscar Farm the descent levelled out and it was to our surprise that on a day like today that an Ice Cream Van was out - if I was him I would be back at home with my feet up in front of the fire.
The route from Bruntscar then continued along a tarmac farm track to reach Philpin from where it was a short walk to respite from the rain - journeys end at The Old Hill Inn which dates from 1615. We were met and welcomed by the owner Sabena and whilst the pub was not due to open until 6, duly charged our glasses with foaming ale. Bless her, she even lit the fire so we could make a start on drying our sopping wet kit. After settling in we received a call from our good friends Colin & Deborah who informed us they were stood outside the pub waiting to surprise us but couldn't get in as the pub was shut!! We had a quick word with Sabena who opened up early therefore we were able to enjoy a drink together - what a nice surprise. Deborah & Colin stayed for Dinner and we had a really good evening together in their company - the meal was exceptionally good, helped enormously by the fact that Sabena's husband Colin was a very talented Pâtissier and sugar sculptor. Saying goodbye to our surprise guests we spent the remainder of the evening having a really good sort out of kit ready for Ingleborough tomorrow.
The Victorian Drinking Fountain in Finkle Street Sedbergh
This fountain with side-benches was erected in 1897 when Finkle Street was widened. It commemorates the diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria.
This fountain with side-benches was erected in 1897 when Finkle Street was widened. It commemorates the diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria.
Always reminds me of Ace Ventura, Pet Detective
The War Memorial in Sedbergh
As you do
Millthrop Bridge in Sedbergh passing over the River Rawthey
Leaving Sedbergh the route heads out following The Dales Way - Winder is the hill to the left
After passing Gap Woods we came to a track by a farm then on to Gap lane and down to the Dent Road. There was an interesting wooden door in the track wall. It is a side entrance to the large property of Gate Manor.
Fudge was glad the day was dry as we cross Brackensgill Bridge - at least for the time being
This chap was pretty friendly although left us alone once he realised we had no food for him
Fudge in "bimble mode" as we head to Dent alongside the River Dee
Barth Bridge near Dent
Arriving in Dent - now where is that cafe??
The wonderful cafe in Dent Village Heritage Centre - the Lemon Drizzle was exceptional
Thought twice about buying a new jumper - didn't bother in the end
The memorial to Adam Sedgwick, one of the founders of modern Geology who was born in Dent
Tempting but we had to crack on
St Andrew's Church in Dent
Church Bridge, Dent
As fun as it would be Fudge to mess about on the stepping stones, unfortunately we are not going that way
Whernside - we would be up there soon enough
Yep - spot on Mr Farmer
Arten Gill Viaduct & Great Knoutberry
Moss Tarn below Whernside
The summit of Whernside
Heading down from Whernside to Bruntscar
I just love optimistic people.
Meanwhile Fudge bless him - was as wet as an Otter's Pocket
Meanwhile Fudge bless him - was as wet as an Otter's Pocket
Not far to go - it was pretty miserable weather wise at this point
Last bits along the farm track towards Philpin Farm - Ingleborough sits ominously in cloud
Fudge was modelling his "Dog just come out of the Washing Machine" look.
Whilst the pub wasn't officially open, Sabena the proprietor wondered whether we would like a drink of anything??
The makeshift drying facilities in The Old Hill Inn
Sabena's husband was a fully qualified Patissier - this tasted as good as it looked
With our good friends Deb, Colin, Cornelius & Phineas who very kindly surprised us with a visit & Dinner
Day 20 Data
Mileage
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Total Ascent
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Total Ascent
14 miles
245.7 miles
6hrs 50mins
2742ft (836m)
245.7 miles
6hrs 50mins
2742ft (836m)