Muker & Keld - Tuesday 21 April 2026
Route
Muker - Ramps Holme Bridge - Swinner Gill - Crackpot Hall - West Wood - East Gill Force - Keld - Rukin Wood - North Gang Scar - Kisdon - Muker
Parking
Free verge parking on the western edge of Muker. The Grid Reference is SD 90770 97844 and the nearest postcode is DL11 6DN.
Mileage
8 miles
Terrain
Good paths throughout
Weather
Sunshine and light breezes with excellent visibility
Time Taken
4hrs
Total Ascent
1512ft (461m)
Map
OL30 - Yorkshire Dales (Northern & Central Areas)
Walkers
Dave, Angie & Robbie
Muker - Ramps Holme Bridge - Swinner Gill - Crackpot Hall - West Wood - East Gill Force - Keld - Rukin Wood - North Gang Scar - Kisdon - Muker
Parking
Free verge parking on the western edge of Muker. The Grid Reference is SD 90770 97844 and the nearest postcode is DL11 6DN.
Mileage
8 miles
Terrain
Good paths throughout
Weather
Sunshine and light breezes with excellent visibility
Time Taken
4hrs
Total Ascent
1512ft (461m)
Map
OL30 - Yorkshire Dales (Northern & Central Areas)
Walkers
Dave, Angie & Robbie
GPX Files
From 1 March 2025 GPX files will not be available directly from the walk page as there is difficulty in using a downloadable version from the website. To that end, if you require a GPX File please get in touch via the Contact Form below and we will gladly forward it to you - thank you.
From 1 March 2025 GPX files will not be available directly from the walk page as there is difficulty in using a downloadable version from the website. To that end, if you require a GPX File please get in touch via the Contact Form below and we will gladly forward it to you - thank you.
Route Map
Leaving Muker from the parking area on one of our favourite walks in a lovely area of the Yorkshire Dales
Been past this sign a number of times and it always raises a smile.........
..... and here it is, The Farmers Arms in Muker. Thankfully it is now managed by people with both a customer focus and a personality.
Just a few yards from the pub is Muker Village Store and Tea Shop - sadly we were a bit too early
A little further on past the Village Store our route headed to the left up the hill - the road to the right heads to Gunnerside
The Muker Literary Institute
Muker Literary Institute is an iconic historic building built in 1864 and has two rooms. The upstairs room is used by Muker Silver Band with the smaller lower room housing an exhibition of historic photos and artefacts. Entrance is free (though there is a donation box and payment card reader to support the upkeep of the building) and is open to the public most days.
Muker Literary Institute is an iconic historic building built in 1864 and has two rooms. The upstairs room is used by Muker Silver Band with the smaller lower room housing an exhibition of historic photos and artefacts. Entrance is free (though there is a donation box and payment card reader to support the upkeep of the building) and is open to the public most days.
A little way along from the Institute is Muker Public Hall
Muker Hall was built in 1922 and had a major refurbishment in 1997. The hall is used by community groups on a regular basis and is available to hire for evenings, half days or full days. It has been used in various ways including concerts (including the Muker Silver Band and local folk groups), wedding and funeral receptions, professional workshops and craft exhibitions.
Muker Hall was built in 1922 and had a major refurbishment in 1997. The hall is used by community groups on a regular basis and is available to hire for evenings, half days or full days. It has been used in various ways including concerts (including the Muker Silver Band and local folk groups), wedding and funeral receptions, professional workshops and craft exhibitions.
Sandwiched in between the Hall & Institute is St Mary the Virgin Church
St Mary’s is a simple church which blends in with its surroundings. It is one of the few churches to be built in the reign of Elizabeth I and was consecrated in 1580. It was originally built as a chapel of ease for St Andrew’s in Grinton, lower down the valley. It had a thatched roof and no tower. The thatch was replaced by stone slates in 1761 when pews were installed in the church. The tall narrow tower dates from 1793, although looks older. The clock was paid for by public subscription to commemorate the wedding of King George V and Queen Mary.
St Mary’s is a simple church which blends in with its surroundings. It is one of the few churches to be built in the reign of Elizabeth I and was consecrated in 1580. It was originally built as a chapel of ease for St Andrew’s in Grinton, lower down the valley. It had a thatched roof and no tower. The thatch was replaced by stone slates in 1761 when pews were installed in the church. The tall narrow tower dates from 1793, although looks older. The clock was paid for by public subscription to commemorate the wedding of King George V and Queen Mary.
At a large mill stone a sign points the way towards Gunnerside & Keld
Leaving the village the route heads across several fields towards Ramps Holme Bridge
Altogether now........ aaaahhhhh
Continuing across the filed paths to Ramps Holme - this time on a flagged path. There is a sign just as you leave the village requesting that walkers keep to the flagged path whilst transiting through.
The Yorkshire Dales has many of these stone barns dotted all over the countryside. As well as dry stone walls, traditional field barns are one of the Dales most characteristic features. Originally constructed to shelter cattle during the winter and store hay up above, these barns allowed farmers to dry and store grass close to where it was cut, reducing the need to transport hay back to the main farmstead.
The keen eyed will notice the stones sticking out proud of the structure. The stones are called "through stones" or "throughs” (pronounced "truffs" in local dialect), and they run all the way through the wall to lock the structure together.
The keen eyed will notice the stones sticking out proud of the structure. The stones are called "through stones" or "throughs” (pronounced "truffs" in local dialect), and they run all the way through the wall to lock the structure together.
At the end of the the last field the route reaches a hinged hand gate. Once through the gate we had a choice of routes to Keld - both paths run either side of the River Swale. We headed along the Gunnerside path to reach Ramps Holme Bridge and instead of turning right to Gunnerside we would be turning left and heading along the eastern bank of the river.
The River Swale from the hand gate
The Swale runs for 60 miles starting its course at nearby Birkdale Beck and finishing up by flowing into the River Ure a few miles south of Thirsk. The river is said to be the fastest flowing in England and its levels have been known to rise 10 feet (3m) in as little as 20 minutes.
The Swale runs for 60 miles starting its course at nearby Birkdale Beck and finishing up by flowing into the River Ure a few miles south of Thirsk. The river is said to be the fastest flowing in England and its levels have been known to rise 10 feet (3m) in as little as 20 minutes.
Ramps Holme Bridge
Robbie looking “mean and keen” as we cross the Swale via Ramps Holme Bridge
At the other side of the bridge the path splits - we dropped down to the left to continue on to Keld. As stated earlier, the route to the right heads to Gunnerside hand railing the Swale all the way. It is a delightful walk and forms part of the low level route of the Coast to Coast.
The route passes a pair of cairns as we begin the walk along the eastern bank of the Swale. Over the other side of the river just left of centre can be seen the hand gate we passed through earlier.
Robbie looks back at us waiting for the command “In” meaning it is safe enough to enter the river
Tried to do a bit of research about this random set of stones on the river bank - nothing doing unfortunately
The bank above Swinner Gill and the ruined buildings of the old lead mine
Crossing Swinner Gill via the footbridge
The ruined buildings at the base of Swinner Gill. There are more buildings at the top of the gill which are passed if continuing to Reeth via the Coast to Coast Route.
The mine was built in the late 1740's and was active until the mid 1830's. The area featured numerous mines and structures related to lead extraction, smelting, and processing. The mine was built where the East Grain Beck drops down by a waterfall to Swinner Gill. This is where the galena was mined, galena being the primary ore of lead. Swinner Gill had its own Smelting Mill, built by Thomas Hopper & Co who leased neighbouring mines. The Mill was operational by 1807, however it is shown as disused in a 1850's map. By 1832, over 1,964 tons of ore had been extracted.
In the mid 1830's production ceased, although there were attempts at mining here in the 1860's & 70's.
The mine was built in the late 1740's and was active until the mid 1830's. The area featured numerous mines and structures related to lead extraction, smelting, and processing. The mine was built where the East Grain Beck drops down by a waterfall to Swinner Gill. This is where the galena was mined, galena being the primary ore of lead. Swinner Gill had its own Smelting Mill, built by Thomas Hopper & Co who leased neighbouring mines. The Mill was operational by 1807, however it is shown as disused in a 1850's map. By 1832, over 1,964 tons of ore had been extracted.
In the mid 1830's production ceased, although there were attempts at mining here in the 1860's & 70's.
Looking back down Swaledale towards Muker
Above Swinner Gill a way mark is reached at Grid Reference NY 90465 00859. This is the point at which the Coast to Coast High & Low Routes split - the Low Route continues on to Gunnerside (part of our outward route today) whilst the High heads over Mellbecks Moor. Both the High & Low routes merge in Reeth.
The amusingly named Crackpot Hall
The 18th-century smallholding was abandoned in 1953, when lead mining subsidence rendered it uninhabitable. It is thought that the building may also have been used as offices for the mining companies in the area.
The 18th-century smallholding was abandoned in 1953, when lead mining subsidence rendered it uninhabitable. It is thought that the building may also have been used as offices for the mining companies in the area.
The glorious view from Crackpot Hall
We have been to Crackpot Hall many times and it is sad to see that the ruins become more dilapidated each time we visit
Following in the paw steps of his brother from another mother - try as we might still couldn’t get it started
Continuing on to Keld, the route passes another stone barn. The area beyond the barn is Beldi Hill which is where we were off to next.
Ascending Beldi Hill
Kisdon from Beldi Hill
The summit of Beldi Hill
Keld from Beldi Hill
The name of the village derives from the Viking word Kelda meaning a spring and the village was historically called Appletre Kelde – meaning "the spring near the apple trees". Despite its isolated location, Keld was once an important centre for lead mining and its population is believed to have been as high as 6,000 during the mid-19th century. Today though, it is no more than 100. It is hard to imagine 60 times as many people living and working here.
The name of the village derives from the Viking word Kelda meaning a spring and the village was historically called Appletre Kelde – meaning "the spring near the apple trees". Despite its isolated location, Keld was once an important centre for lead mining and its population is believed to have been as high as 6,000 during the mid-19th century. Today though, it is no more than 100. It is hard to imagine 60 times as many people living and working here.
The River Swale cutting through the landscape as we drop down into Keld
The point where several long distance paths meet above East Gill Force in Keld - Pennine Way, Coast to Coast, Herriot Way & Pennine Journey
Keld is the official halfway point on the Coast to Coast Route and was granted National Trail status on the 26 March 2026
A memorial bench above East Gill Force
A second memorial bench is sited just a few yards away. This bench was provided by The Pennine Journey Supporters Club in 2013 to commemorate Alfred Wainwright’s Pennine Journey in 1938. The original book Wainwright wrote regarding this journey is a fascinating read and I can heartily recommend it.
East Gill Force
Robbie at East Gill Force
Crossing into Keld via the footbridge over the River Swale
The River Swale from the footbridge
The cobbled cart track that leads to Keld
At the top of the cart track is the Pennine Way path coming in from Muker and the one we would be using in order to return to the village. However, first we were off to Keld and the cafe at Rukins.
Food of the gods at Rukins
The cafe at Rukins - we have been coming here for years and were sad to hear that Barbara who runs it is retiring. We were informed by her that the plan was to close the cafe indefinitely following the 2026 season. Please check with the campsite should you be planning to top up your energy here.
An ingenious use of old farm machinery at Rukins
Black Hill from Rukins Farm
Keld Village Hall
In the winter months the Village Hall doubles as a Self Service Winter Tea Room on an honesty basis
In the winter months the Village Hall doubles as a Self Service Winter Tea Room on an honesty basis
As the door was open, we popped in to the Village Hall and had our lunch
Butt House B&B in Keld
We know the owners Chris & Jacqui very well therefore we dropped in for a chat and also for Robbie to meet their dog Scamp
We know the owners Chris & Jacqui very well therefore we dropped in for a chat and also for Robbie to meet their dog Scamp
The United Reformed Church in Keld complete with a state of the art method of displaying the time. Wainwright said of Keld "a sundial records the hours but time is measured in centuries”. The building to the left of the church entrance is the former Minister's Residence, Keld Manse and is now a holiday cottage.
Keld Literary Institute & Resource Centre
The Institute was the vision of the Reverend James Wilkinson, Vicar of the parish between 1838 - 1866 and provided a reading room and self-improvement educational facilities for the miners of Keld. The Institute finally closed in 1970 but has been resurrected by a local community charity in partnership with the church. The Keld Resource Centre aims to preserve and explain the unique heritage and environment of Upper Swaledale for the benefit of the local community, visitors and the rural economy.
The Institute was the vision of the Reverend James Wilkinson, Vicar of the parish between 1838 - 1866 and provided a reading room and self-improvement educational facilities for the miners of Keld. The Institute finally closed in 1970 but has been resurrected by a local community charity in partnership with the church. The Keld Resource Centre aims to preserve and explain the unique heritage and environment of Upper Swaledale for the benefit of the local community, visitors and the rural economy.
Forty winks for a Ewe and her offspring as we leave Keld
We were now on the Pennine Way path below Kisdon - if you wish to drop down to visit the waterfall the path can be found at Grid Reference NY 89682 00879
As usual, Robbie forges ahead and continually mocks our progress uphill
Heading along a slightly exposed section of the Pennine Way
Looking across to Crackpot Hall
Looking across to Black Hill & Beale Hill from the upper path. The going on this path is generally good but does have the odd stony section.
The River Swale below us as we near the farm at Kisdon
As we near Kisdon Farm the terrain becomes easier
It clearly gets a bit windy up here
Ramps Holme Farm below with Muker over to the right
Dropping down to reach Kisdon
At Grid Reference SD 90363 98578 the path leaves the Pennine Way to head down a farm track into Muker
Still as fresh as a daisy eh Robbie??
Muker below as the farm track zig zags its way down to the village
Nothing like a nice pint in a lovely pub at the end of a walk