Day 6 - Thursday 16 June 2016
Kirkby Stephen to Keld (12.5 miles)
After yesterday's long walk we were glad of a relatively shorter leg today over to Keld via Nine Standards Rigg. There would be more ascent but at 7 miles less it was considerably shorter therefore we were in no rush to get away. So much so that we were last in for breakfast which was in full swing when we came down with the HF group holding court. The day was looking pretty bland on the weather front with overcast skies and mild temperatures promised for our walk today.
Breakfast over, we got our stuff together, thanked Carol for a lovely stay and made our way out of Kirkby Stephen, grabbing some fresh provisions on the way. The route headed through the centre of town, passing the impressive Portico of St Stephen's Church where the Wainwright Commemorative slab can be found. Crossing Frank's Bridge and the River Eden, we headed through the small village of Hartley and joined a lane which took us past a large quarry. Soon the lane turned into a track and the going became rougher as we approached the point where we would have to make a choice of route. There are 3 routes from this point and as we were walking in June we took the Red Route over Hartley Fell passing to the south of a stream.
Breakfast over, we got our stuff together, thanked Carol for a lovely stay and made our way out of Kirkby Stephen, grabbing some fresh provisions on the way. The route headed through the centre of town, passing the impressive Portico of St Stephen's Church where the Wainwright Commemorative slab can be found. Crossing Frank's Bridge and the River Eden, we headed through the small village of Hartley and joined a lane which took us past a large quarry. Soon the lane turned into a track and the going became rougher as we approached the point where we would have to make a choice of route. There are 3 routes from this point and as we were walking in June we took the Red Route over Hartley Fell passing to the south of a stream.
The commemorative pavement stone in Kirkby Stephen, situated outside the entrance to St Stephen's Church. The slab commemorates Wainwright's 1938 Pennine Journey and his 1973 Coast to Coast, both of which pass through Kirkby Stephen.
Crossing the 17th century Frank's Bridge in Kirkby Stephen
Frank's Bridge from the other side of the River Eden
Passing through the village of Hartley
Passing Fell House
Red Route for us today
The 'rest a while" carved wooden seat on the way to Nine Standards Rigg
We could now see Nine Standards Rigg ahead of us - 9 large cairned structures on top of Hartley Fell. Whilst their original purpose is uncertain, one possibility is that they marked the boundary between Westmorland & Swaledale - another theory is that they were constructed by the Roman Army to look like troops from a distance.
Just before the top was a large shelter and we stopped and chatted to some fellow Coast to Coasters who were resting up - they were a married couple from nearby Northallerton and we would next see them on the Richmond to Danby Wiske leg. Reaching Nine Standards Rigg we had it to ourselves and whilst the visibility was none too clever it was still an impressive sight to behold. From the cairns we passed firstly the large toposcope and then the Trig Point to head over peat bog on the Red Route. This particular section is a renowned bog hop but after the recent dry spell was not too bad to be honest. The way ahead was marked by various cairns and at one point by a large stone pillar where we caught up with the HF Group just as they were finishing off their lunch. We let them go and stopped for a bite to eat ourselves before heading off on the good path down to meet Ney Gill at the junction with the Green Route.
Just before the top was a large shelter and we stopped and chatted to some fellow Coast to Coasters who were resting up - they were a married couple from nearby Northallerton and we would next see them on the Richmond to Danby Wiske leg. Reaching Nine Standards Rigg we had it to ourselves and whilst the visibility was none too clever it was still an impressive sight to behold. From the cairns we passed firstly the large toposcope and then the Trig Point to head over peat bog on the Red Route. This particular section is a renowned bog hop but after the recent dry spell was not too bad to be honest. The way ahead was marked by various cairns and at one point by a large stone pillar where we caught up with the HF Group just as they were finishing off their lunch. We let them go and stopped for a bite to eat ourselves before heading off on the good path down to meet Ney Gill at the junction with the Green Route.
The Red Route signpost to Nine Standards Rigg
Nine Standards Rigg comes into view
Up on the top of Nine Standards Rigg
The toposcope on Nine Standards Rigg
It had been dry lately - after rain this area is normally a bog fest
Bleak now as we leave Nine Standards Rigg
The tall stone pillar on the path from Nine Standards Rigg - people use this as a navigational aid but it is not much help in poor visibility
The HF Group on the path down to Ney Gill
From the junction the route follows the gill to pass first a shooting cabin and then several grouse butts to cross the gill four times via plank bridges. Reaching a track we followed the HF Group downhill gently to arrive at the remote farmstead of Ravenseat, the home of The Yorkshire Shepherdess Amanda Owen. Amanda has been on TV several times and farms this beautiful area with her husband and 8 children - she was pregnant with their 9th!! The farm is a delight - out in the middle of nowhere providing bunkhouse accommodation, B&B plus Cream Teas for hungry walkers. After a lovely Cream Tea, we had a quick chat with Amanda and she made a big fuss of Fudge before we left the farm to make the final part of todays walk in to Keld.
On the Ney Gill path to Ravenseat - the Black Hut ahead is a shooting cabin
Ravenseat
Heading down the path to Ravenseat with the HF group ahead of us - hope they don't eat all the Scones
The entrance to Ravenseat Farm
Well you have to don't you? The bloke behind Dave has clearly eaten too much
Dave & Fudge with the Yorkshire Shepherdess, Amanda Owen
Team HF with Amanda Owen
Keld marks the halfway point of the Coast to Coast and this final couple of miles to the small hamlet was on a good path, high above a wooded ravine with the B6270 road below. Soon enough we dropped down to a steep zigzag road that comes in from Tan Hill to join the B Road for the final 1/2 a mile or so to Keld, firstly passing Keld Lodge and then arriving at our digs for the night at Butt House.
Heading for Keld
The path drops down off the hillside to take the road in to Keld
The River Swale near Keld
Half a mile to Keld - can almost taste that first pint of Black Sheep
Reproducing Yurts
Not many places to stay in Keld - this is one of them ......
.... and here is another - our bed for the night at Butt House
We stayed at Butt House last year whilst walking the Pennine Way and it is a fantastic B&B which used to be run by Doreen Whitehead before being taken over by Jacqui & Chris the current owners. We received a lovely welcome from Jacqui & Chris and were shown to the same room we had last year. Once refreshed and cleaned up we made our way downstairs for pre dinner drinks and were in company with 4 walkers from New Zealand who would now be known as the Kiwis, 1 Scottish chap who was on the Pennine Way and a husband and wife from the Monterrey Peninsula in Northern California - this was Bob & Ellen. The Dinner and company was excellent - as was the Black Sheep on draft.
Overnight Accommodation
Butt House, Keld - www.butthousekeld.co.uk
Our second stay here in as many years. Jacqui & Chris run an excellent and very comfortable B&B providing evening meals which are very good value for money - they are licensed too.
Our second stay here in as many years. Jacqui & Chris run an excellent and very comfortable B&B providing evening meals which are very good value for money - they are licensed too.
Day 6 Data
Mileage
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Cumulative Time
Maximum Ascent
Total Ascent
Cumulative Ascent
Cumulative Mileage
Time
Cumulative Time
Maximum Ascent
Total Ascent
Cumulative Ascent
12.5 miles
93.7 miles
5 hrs 30 min
45 hrs 22 min
2185 feet
2552 feet
21109 feet
93.7 miles
5 hrs 30 min
45 hrs 22 min
2185 feet
2552 feet
21109 feet