Day 7 - Saturday 27 November 2021
Kinlochleven to Fort William (16.2 miles)
Massive clue as to which way to head this morning as I leave Kinlochleven on the last day of the West Highland Way. I was in for a mixed weather day of strong winds, snow & sunshine.
The War Memorial in Kinlochleven
The Sea Eagle Sculpture in Kinlochleven by the artist Tim Roper
At first sight this bench looks like a War Memorial, however on closer inspection it is celebrating the 100 year anniversary of the Kinlochleven & District Angling Club.
The Pelton Wheel in Kinlochleven with Ice Factor to the rear.
A Pelton Wheel is a water impulse turbine which extracts energy from the impulse of moving water. It was designed by Lester Allan Pelton in the 1870s and the design improved on many less efficient variations of impulse turbines that existed at that time. The old Kinlochleven Power House had 11 DC generating sets each fitted with its own Pelton Wheel.
Ice Factor is the world's largest indoor ice climbing facility and is housed in the old aluminium smelter building. The smelter closed in 1996 and remained empty until recycled by climber & entrepreneur Jamie Smith who opened the climbing facility in 2003
A Pelton Wheel is a water impulse turbine which extracts energy from the impulse of moving water. It was designed by Lester Allan Pelton in the 1870s and the design improved on many less efficient variations of impulse turbines that existed at that time. The old Kinlochleven Power House had 11 DC generating sets each fitted with its own Pelton Wheel.
Ice Factor is the world's largest indoor ice climbing facility and is housed in the old aluminium smelter building. The smelter closed in 1996 and remained empty until recycled by climber & entrepreneur Jamie Smith who opened the climbing facility in 2003
Crossing the bridge over the River Leven. Despite the blue skies, it was bitterly cold this morning.
All is quiet as I head out of Kinlochleven. The road ahead bends left with the route turning off to the right soon after.
Believe it or not, this van is actually an Air BnB and sits on the drive of The Old Police Station
The turning off the B863. I was looking forward to my transit through the Lairig Mor (The Big Pass).
The path from the B863 climbs quite steeply through the forest to eventually reveal Loch Leven and views beyond
Garbh Bheinn above Kinlochleven
The pointed tip of the Pap of Glencoe with Beinn a'Bheithir (The Hill of the Thunderbolt) beyond
I'm not much of a one for selfies but took one just to prove how cold it was this morning - Mam na Gualainn is the mountain behind me.
Looking over Loch Leven - the toothy ridge in the centre is Aonach Eagach
Entering Lairig Mor
Lairig Mor stretching out in front of me - I wouldn't see a soul now for 10 miles.
As I headed further along the Lairig Mor the path became extremely icy. I had my micro spikes with me but did not need them.
In some guide books the Lairig Mor is described as "a wide, barren mountain crossing on a typically grand highland scale" - it is hard to argue with that looking at pictures like this.
The derelict croft at Tigh-na-sleubhaich. There was a sign outside asking people to keep out as the building is extremely fragile.
Another view of the derelict croft at Tigh-na-sleubhaich - the mountain to the rear is Stob Ban
After passing through Tigh-na-sleubhaich the route crosses the Allt Coire na Sleubhaich
The route on the left heads back to the B863
More ruins this time at Lairigmor
Always good to look back as The Mamores tower above me
Cloud clearing now as the route swings to the north west as I look to Tom Meadhoin and Doire Ban
The scenery became gentler as I continued to head north - Meill nan Cleireach is over to my left
The route diverts to the left around this sheepfold - for the opportunists and the lazy then beware as the top gate is open but the bottom gate is padlocked.
The Commemorative Cairn to the Battle of Inverlochy
The Battle of Inverlochy took place one mile north of Fort William in 1645. The battle was a decisive victory for the Marquess of Montrose's Royalist Army over the covenanting forces of Argyll. Following the battle the Clan Campbell, who formed part of the defeated Argyll forces fled back to their homeland in the direction of the Lairig Mor closely followed by the chasing MacDonalds who were clearly intent on slaying them further. To mark the spot where the MacDonalds broke off from the chase, they raised a large stone which was known as "Clach nan Caimbeulach" (Stone of the Campbells). The cairn in the picture replaced the stone and tradition has it that MacDonalds (sympathisers of Montrose) should add a stone as they pass and that Campbells (sympathisers of Argyll) should take one away.
The Battle of Inverlochy took place one mile north of Fort William in 1645. The battle was a decisive victory for the Marquess of Montrose's Royalist Army over the covenanting forces of Argyll. Following the battle the Clan Campbell, who formed part of the defeated Argyll forces fled back to their homeland in the direction of the Lairig Mor closely followed by the chasing MacDonalds who were clearly intent on slaying them further. To mark the spot where the MacDonalds broke off from the chase, they raised a large stone which was known as "Clach nan Caimbeulach" (Stone of the Campbells). The cairn in the picture replaced the stone and tradition has it that MacDonalds (sympathisers of Montrose) should add a stone as they pass and that Campbells (sympathisers of Argyll) should take one away.
About 1/2 a mile on from the commemorative cairn the path splits with the West Highland Way heading to the right to pass the information board. Should anybody not fancy the route over moorland then the track to the left eventually leads to a quiet lane which will take the walker the 4 and a half miles to Fort William. It is an option to consider should the weather be inclement.
Looking back to the path split and Locham Lunn-da-Bhra. The lane to Fort William can be seen coming in on the centre right.
What a lovely project to commemorate those that made the ultimate sacrifice
The route crosses a footbridge near a waterfall at the Alt Coire a'Mhuilinn - I stopped at this lovely spot for a late lunch.
Ben Nevis towers above as I near Dun Deardail and its hill fort which can be seen to the left.
The turn off for Dun Deardail Hill Fort with Mell an t-Suidhe and Ben Nevis to the rear. Whilst I didn't turn off to visit today, the summit of the hill fort gives stunning close up views of Ben Nevis & Glen Nevis.
Descending along the forest road into Fort William. I met the 3 chaps and their dog a little further back near the waterfall where I had my late lunch. They were wild camping the route and apart from people near and in Fort William, these were the only walkers I saw all day.
Another glorious view of Ben Nevis
Continuing on to Fort William - I love the name of the Car Park
The YH in question is the one at Glen Nevis
I didn't fancy walking to Fort William along a busy road therefore took a route in to the town via a path called the Peat Track. The track is so named as it was once used by Glen Nevis residents to climb up here, cut peats and carry them back to their homes once they had dried in the summer’s wind and sun. After almost 14 miles in, others may not appreciate that the path is extremely steep for the first half mile then does eventually level off to then drop gently into Fort William.
That's 2.36121 miles in old money
The reward for that steep first half mile is this view over Fort William & Loch Linnhe
As I make my way in to Fort William, one of my best & greatest friends waits patiently in Fort William for me..........................
..................... thankfully he had someone there to keep him company
And there we are - journeys end in "Fort Bill". What an absolutely fantastic experience and one which I thoroughly enjoyed. Thanks go to my lovely wife Angie for ferrying me about and to Fudge for accompanying me on 3 of the legs.
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GPX File
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Day 7 Data
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Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Total Ascent |
16.2 miles
98.2 miles 6hrs 3034ft (925m) |