Day 3 - Monday 22 November 2021
Rowardennan to Inverarnan (14.9 miles)
Early morning at Rowardennan looking down Loch Lomond - looks like we are in for a beautiful day
Glorious reflections on the water from the loch shore at Rowardennan with Ptarmigan & Ben Lomond centre & right. The building right of centre is Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel.
Serenity at Rowardennan - the Loch was like glass (click Play to view)
In the foreground is the commemorative stone memorial near the shores of Loch Lomond at Rowardennan.
The memorial was purchased by military veteran Jock Cousin - he replaced the original brass plaque thieves took from the Ben Lomond National Memorial Park - all paid for out of his own pocket. A stonemason friend of his did the work - the inscription reads:
"This land rising from the shore of the loch to the summit of Ben Lomond was dedicated in 1994 as the Ben Lomond National Memorial Park to be held in perpetuity as a tribute to those who gave their lives in the service of their country"
The memorial was purchased by military veteran Jock Cousin - he replaced the original brass plaque thieves took from the Ben Lomond National Memorial Park - all paid for out of his own pocket. A stonemason friend of his did the work - the inscription reads:
"This land rising from the shore of the loch to the summit of Ben Lomond was dedicated in 1994 as the Ben Lomond National Memorial Park to be held in perpetuity as a tribute to those who gave their lives in the service of their country"
Since 1995, the area around Ben Lomond, including the mountain summit, has been designated as a war memorial, called the Ben Lomond National Memorial Park. The park is dedicated to those who gave their lives in the First and Second World Wars and was created out of the former Rowardennan Estate with the support of the National Heritage Memorial Fund. The Memorial Park was officially opened on Armistice Day in 1997 by the Rt Hon Donald Dewar, then Secretary of State for Scotland and later becoming the first First Minister of Scotland. At the opening ceremony he unveiled this granite sculpture by Doug Cocker, a Scottish artist who had won a competition organised by the Scottish Sculpture Trust to design a permanent monument for the park.
Fudge at the entrance to Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel
The entrance to Ben Lomond House which is a private home & B&B. The mural on the gate is a lovely piece of artwork - Fudge and I didn't try the cake as we had a packed lunch but I will when I pass through in May 22.
Shortly after Ben Lomond House is the turn off for the Ptarmigan Path which heads up to the Munro of Ben Lomond. We walked the mountain in May 2018 via this route and a walk report can be found here
Fudge looks longingly along the shore of Loch Lomond - he would get the opportunity to swim in the loch a bit further on
The route passes the entrance to Ptarmigan Lodge. The lodge was originally built for the Duke of Montrose in the 1870s and is now a private residence used for holiday accommodation.
The route rises gently on a forest track along the shore line of Loch Lomond
Approximately 45 minutes in and I had a decision to make whether or not to take the lower or upper route along the loch shore. The lower path along the edge of the loch is notoriously difficult walking and involves clambering over rocks and trees. Before starting out today it was always my intention to keep it simple and whilst I am an experienced walker I was doing this walk with guiding other people in mind. Did I want to be leading up to 12 people, some of whom may be inexperienced over this type of terrain on what was already a very long day? In the end I was glad I remained on the higher and much easier part of this section as it is a tough enough day even without taking the lower path. The junction of paths is at Grid Reference NN 35100 01020.
Heading along the much easier forest track above the loch shore.
At the side of the forest track was a very welcome bench which Fudge and I used for a few minutes rest. The mountain in the distance is the Graham of Beinn Bhreac.
A view I remember from when I was here a few years ago - the glorious sight of The Cobbler, also known as Ben Arthur across Loch Lomond with Beinn Narnain to the right.
From the higher path I turned off down a rough track to join the lower route in order to visit Rowchoish Bothy. This also gave Fudge the opportunity to have a swim in the loch. The turn off for the bothy is at Grid Reference NN 33890 03700.
Moss covered ruined buildings near Rowchoish Bothy
The rear of Rowchoish Bothy - to reach the bothy a path leaves the main route on the left just past the moss covered ruin
Rowchoish Bothy. Surprising as it may now seem, in 1759 there were nine families living in the vicinity of Rowchoish with at least three more settlements between here and Inversnaid. The bothy was the byre of Rowchoish cottage which was occupied until the late 1930s.
Whilst I was having a mooch around Rowchoish, Fudge chilled out a bit and contemplated what he was having for lunch which according to him appeared to be well overdue his 1200 sitting - I had bad news for him, it was only 1105.
The memorial cairn to Bill Lobban near Cailness Burn. Bill was a technical teacher who drowned during an attempt to save two fellow teachers and a student from the same fate whilst out on a school trip in 1975. The plaque reads:
"In loving memory of Bill Lobban died 23 November 1975. He made the supreme sacrifice in saving the life of a friend"
"In loving memory of Bill Lobban died 23 November 1975. He made the supreme sacrifice in saving the life of a friend"
The bridge over Cailness Burn - the chap standing on the bridge was a Park Ranger and he was the first person I saw today. The bridge over the burn is the 3rd one to be built over this stretch of water - two other bridges were swept away in 1975 & 1985.
The waterfall close to the path just south of Ashlan (click Play to view)
At Inversnaid is the turnoff for the Great Trossachs Path which is a 30 mile route between here and Callander to the east. The route also passes through Brig o’ Turk, the Loch Katrine area and Stronachlachar. The path connects the Rob Roy Way with the West Highland Way and also links to the Three Lochs Way therefore long-distance walkers will now be able to undertake an extraordinary journey across the centre of Scotland.
The waterfalls of Arklet Water at Inversnaid which flow out of the loch of the same name. The waterfalls are crossed via 2 footbridges.
The waterfalls at Inversnaid (click Play to view)
The Inversnaid Hotel - very, very shut for the winter. Fudge and I made use of the picnic table to the left to have our lunch.
Looking across Loch Lomond to the Power Station of the Loch Sloy Hydro Electric Scheme with Ben Vane to the left. The facility is operated by Scottish & Southern Energy and is normally in standby mode, ready to generate electricity to meet sudden peaks in demand. It can reach full capacity within 5 minutes from a standing start.
Leaving Inversnaid - having just been fed & watered, Fudge still appears to have a bit of a gob on him
Shortly after Inversnaid the path became rougher and stayed pretty much like this to Ardlui. The path undulates often and involves some mild scrambling.
The route passes these beautifully carved leaf seats
Come on Fudge, you can fit through there - me on the other hand.....................!
A break from the rocky undulations as Island I Vow comes into view
The very pretty Island I Vow. The island was a stronghold of Clan MacFarlane and there are the remains of their castle on it which was built to replace the one on nearby Inveruglas Isle to the south.
Ruined buildings near Doune Bothy - really sad to see them in this state on what is a beautiful setting
Doune Bothy. I chatted to a couple of blokes here for a while, one of whom was soaked to the skin having fallen in a nearby burn. He was intending to stay the night whilst the other chap was, like me heading for Inverarnan.
The ferry point for Ardlui at Ardleish - by this time the going became flatter and therefore much gentler
The village of Ardlui near the northern most point of Loch Lomond with Stob nan Coinnich Bhacain to the left
Looking back to Loch Lomond from near Cnap Mor and it looks like the sky is on fire
Journeys end at Beinglas, Inverarnan - what a fantastic days walking
Oy! Anyone going to scrub my back??
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GPX File
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Day 3 Data
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Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Total Ascent |
14.9 miles
41.2 miles 6hrs 55mins 2995ft (913m) |