Day 1 - Friday 2 October 2020
Melrose to Brownrigg (21.1 miles)
Well here we were at last - after a rejigging of dates due to the Covid pandemic we were off. After a hearty Breakfast at the Templehall, we sorted out our daypacks and waited for our transport to pick us up. Bang on time Chris arrived and after brief introductions we were off to Melrose, the starting point of the walk. Due to the weather forecast for tomorrow being rain of biblical proportions we intended to walk back to Morebattle today and rest up tomorrow - or at least get as far as we could given the fact that we did not start from Melrose until 1015, Sunset today was around 1900 and that the distance was 25 miles. The fact that we had transport each day meant we could be flexible with our plans and juggle the itinerary about a bit therefore we intended to group up the first 3 days of the walk into 2 which was entirely workable due to the short 3rd day between Morebattle & Kirk Yetholm. Whatever the pressures of the itinerary, we would not rush and informed Chris of our intentions to walk all the way back but had in our back pockets the safeguard that we could knock it on the head at any given time and he would pick us up.
The weather forecast today was for light breezes, good visibility and sunny spells and so it proved. With a sensible pace we made good progress to Morebattle however we knew by the middle of the afternoon that we would not make it back there before dark. We therefore called Chris in good time so he could pick us up at Brownrigg Farm at 1900 - about 4 miles short of Morebattle. After a quick shower we enjoyed a good meal in the Hotel which topped off a fantastic day in the Borders.
It was a beautiful day as we prepared to depart from Melrose
Melrose Abbey
The ruined Abbey is a 12th Century Cistercian foundation. The church of St Mary the Virgin is thought to be the burial place of Robert the Bruce's heart. The Abbey is now owned and run by Historic Scotland.
The ruined Abbey is a 12th Century Cistercian foundation. The church of St Mary the Virgin is thought to be the burial place of Robert the Bruce's heart. The Abbey is now owned and run by Historic Scotland.
The Mercat Cross in the Market Square, Melrose
The Mercat Cross was traditionally a symbol of the trading rites of Scottish market towns and villages. A law passed by King William I (1165-1214) required that all goods for sale in burghs be presented at the "mercat and mercat cross". Not only were crosses centres of trade and symbols of a town's trading status, they were also used as sites of proclamation and punishments of criminals, usually in the form of public humiliation.
The Mercat Cross was traditionally a symbol of the trading rites of Scottish market towns and villages. A law passed by King William I (1165-1214) required that all goods for sale in burghs be presented at the "mercat and mercat cross". Not only were crosses centres of trade and symbols of a town's trading status, they were also used as sites of proclamation and punishments of criminals, usually in the form of public humiliation.
From the Mercat Cross, the route headed uphill under the bypass road bridge of the A68 to reach a cut through between houses.
As can be seen here, Fudge was itching to get going.
As can be seen here, Fudge was itching to get going.
Might be worth clearing the drain out as well
The stairway to Heaven - or so it seemed
At the top of the steps the path kept on climbing but a bit more gradual.
The way marker displays two routes in addition to the directional arrow - the top marker is for The St Cuthbert's Way and the middle one is for The Eildon Hills Walk.
The way marker displays two routes in addition to the directional arrow - the top marker is for The St Cuthbert's Way and the middle one is for The Eildon Hills Walk.
The way marking on the entire route was excellent
Looking back to Melrose from near the path to the saddle between the two main Eildons
Near the saddle the mid hilltop and the highest of the 3 Eildon Hills comes into view
The mid hilltop of the 3 Eildon Hills - we did a walk over the 3 Eildon tops in September 2019 but have not blogged it as yet.
The hills are owned by the Duke of Buccleuch who grants rights of responsible access in order that they can be walked by the general public.
The hills are owned by the Duke of Buccleuch who grants rights of responsible access in order that they can be walked by the general public.
The north hilltop of the Eildon Hills from the saddle.
The north top is surrounded by over 5km (3.1 miles) of ramparts, enclosing an area of about 40 acres in which at least 300 level platforms have been cut into the rock to provide bases for turf or timber-walled houses, forming one of the largest hill forts known in Scotland. A Roman Army signalling station was later constructed on the same site as this hill fort.
The north top is surrounded by over 5km (3.1 miles) of ramparts, enclosing an area of about 40 acres in which at least 300 level platforms have been cut into the rock to provide bases for turf or timber-walled houses, forming one of the largest hill forts known in Scotland. A Roman Army signalling station was later constructed on the same site as this hill fort.
From the saddle the route enters delightful woodland towards the village of Bowden
The Pant Well in Bowden Village
The well was erected in 1861. The term 'pant' is believed to refer to the pan or trough for collecting water therefore technically it is not a well but a cistern with a tank that originally held around 600 gallons of water, fed from a natural spring in the nearby Eildon Hills.
The well was erected in 1861. The term 'pant' is believed to refer to the pan or trough for collecting water therefore technically it is not a well but a cistern with a tank that originally held around 600 gallons of water, fed from a natural spring in the nearby Eildon Hills.
The Mercat Cross now adapted as the War Memorial in Bowden
Bowden Kirk
This small church is just off route but is certainly worth the detour.
This small church is just off route but is certainly worth the detour.
An old Roxburgh CC sign in Bowden
Once we passed through the village of Newton St Boswells the route headed high above the River Tweed.
The river is 97 miles in length and flows east across the Borders and Northern England. Tweed cloth derives its name from its association with the river. The Tweed is one of the great salmon rivers of Britain and the only river in England where an Environment Agency rod licence is not required.
The river is 97 miles in length and flows east across the Borders and Northern England. Tweed cloth derives its name from its association with the river. The Tweed is one of the great salmon rivers of Britain and the only river in England where an Environment Agency rod licence is not required.
The River Tweed near the Dryburgh Abbey footbridge.
Ordinarily we would have made the detour to visit Dryburgh Abbey but as we were hoping to get as far as we could today, left it for another time.
Ordinarily we would have made the detour to visit Dryburgh Abbey but as we were hoping to get as far as we could today, left it for another time.
The Eildon Hills from St Boswells village on the road above the Golf Course
FORE! The route enters the environs of St Boswells Golf Club - Fudge looks a tad cautious.
The route transits through the attractive 9 hole course therefore care needs to be taken, however for the majority of the passage the path is out of the way up on a bank away from stray shots.
The route transits through the attractive 9 hole course therefore care needs to be taken, however for the majority of the passage the path is out of the way up on a bank away from stray shots.
This is about as close as we got to the actual course
Plenty of opportunity for swimming as we continued along the Tweed
Mertoun Bridge - made of red sandstone and dates from 1841
Heading along the Tweed at Fens Haugh
Maxton Church
The church dates from the 17th Century and is the only church dedicated to St Cuthbert that is passed on the route.
The church dates from the 17th Century and is the only church dedicated to St Cuthbert that is passed on the route.
Heading along the Roman Road of Dere Street
From near the A68, the Roman Road ran mostly straight for the next 3 miles apart from a couple of diversions around a plantation. Dere Street originally ran north from York to at least as far as the Antonine Wall. Portions of its route are still followed by modern roads, including the A1 & A68.
From near the A68, the Roman Road ran mostly straight for the next 3 miles apart from a couple of diversions around a plantation. Dere Street originally ran north from York to at least as far as the Antonine Wall. Portions of its route are still followed by modern roads, including the A1 & A68.
Lady Liliard's Stone
Behind a wall on Dere Street is this coffin-shaped monument to Lady Lilliard who carried out legendary bravery during the Battle of Ancrum in 1545. The inscription on the monument reads:
"Fair Maiden Lilliard lies under this stane
Little was her stature, but muckle was her fame
Upon the English loons she laid many thumps
And when her legs were cuttit off, she fought upon her stumps"
Behind a wall on Dere Street is this coffin-shaped monument to Lady Lilliard who carried out legendary bravery during the Battle of Ancrum in 1545. The inscription on the monument reads:
"Fair Maiden Lilliard lies under this stane
Little was her stature, but muckle was her fame
Upon the English loons she laid many thumps
And when her legs were cuttit off, she fought upon her stumps"
Looking to Peniel Heugh & the Waterloo Monument from Dere Street
It was near here we got chatting to an Australian couple who had found themselves unable to get back home during lockdown. Rather than just hang about and wait they decided to buy a load of camping gear and walk from John O'Groats to Lands End (as you do).
It was near here we got chatting to an Australian couple who had found themselves unable to get back home during lockdown. Rather than just hang about and wait they decided to buy a load of camping gear and walk from John O'Groats to Lands End (as you do).
Getting the big "Cow Eyes" on Dere Street
Arriving near the Visitor's Centre at Harestanes.
Ordinarily this would have been it for Day 1 but we continued on past the signpost and headed eastwards.
Ordinarily this would have been it for Day 1 but we continued on past the signpost and headed eastwards.
Having entered the Monteviot Estate we crossed the drive to Monteviot House
Continuing along Dere Street.
The navigation along here was a doddle - straight as a die and just follow the Roman Helmets!
The navigation along here was a doddle - straight as a die and just follow the Roman Helmets!
Weird place to have a light - no wiring or anything like that
Crossing the River Teviot via the very rickety footbridge.
The previous footbridge was damaged by floods in 1997 and replaced by this version in 1999.
The previous footbridge was damaged by floods in 1997 and replaced by this version in 1999.
Fudge makes sure his Mum is ok as she makes her way over the bridge
Looking back to the footbridge from the banks of the River Teviot
Pointless gates No 143 as we head towards Littledeanlees
Looking back to Littledeanlees and a glorious sunset
The sky appears to be on fire as we approach journey's end for today at Brownrigg
Day 1 Data
|
Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Total Ascent |
21.1 Miles
21.1 Miles 8hrs 45mins 3175ft (968m) |