Day 6 - Monday 13 May 2019
Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale (12.6 miles)
Awoke to a superb weather day in Bowes. At breakfast we met 6 mature gents who were walking a few sections of the Pennine Way together plus a chap called Chris who was also on their route but doing it on his own - we were all off to Middleton today. We found out the 6 lads were from the Home Counties and immediately christened them the HCPB (Home Counties Posh Boys). We had a very pleasant stay at The Ancient Unicorn - good food, great room, unpretentious and excellent value for money.
Heading out of Bowes we crossed the A66 via the bridge and started the lonely moorland transit to Blackton Bridge. One thing we did notice was the amount of dead Rabbits strewn across the verges and road. We were to see this a lot during the Durham sections, particularly out on the open moorland and grouse shooting areas. We stopped at the delightful Blackton Bridge for a bit of lunch and were passed firstly by Chris and after that the HCPB. Suitably refreshed we passed Low Birk Hatt & Hannah's Meadow to make the sometimes boggy journey to Grassholme Reservoir. Crossing the bridge over Grassholme Reservoir we bumped into the HCPB who were resting up after making a good pace from Bowes.
By now we were being to get a bit peckish and were therefore delighted to come across a fantastic pop up Tuck Shop at Wythes Hill Farm. It had the lot - fresh water, chocolate, cold drinks etc therefore we felt it only right to help them with their stock control. All that was left now was to enjoy the gorgeous ascent down into Middleton-in-Teesdale and then wash our dirty pooch off in the River Tees before walking into this delightful market town. Opposite our bed for the night (The Teesdale Hotel) was a pub called The Forresters therefore rather than check in we sat outside in the sun and plugged ourselves in to Cider. Shortly after arriving the 6 HCPB joined us as they were staying here also. Tearing ourselves away we bimbled over the road and headed to the basic but comfortable room.
At Dinner we chatted to Chris who we found out was from Shropshire and would also be staying at Langdon Beck tomorrow night with us. The pub was busy therefore after an excellent meal we headed off to the Co-op to top up with supplies and bumped into Gail who we knew lived in Middleton and is someone we now & then go walking with in the Lake District. We arranged to meet up later maybe and once we had sorted ourselves out with regard to kit etc, met up with Gail & Nev who very kindly gave us some excellent Flapjacks for our journey tomorrow.
Heading out of Bowes we crossed the A66 via the bridge and started the lonely moorland transit to Blackton Bridge. One thing we did notice was the amount of dead Rabbits strewn across the verges and road. We were to see this a lot during the Durham sections, particularly out on the open moorland and grouse shooting areas. We stopped at the delightful Blackton Bridge for a bit of lunch and were passed firstly by Chris and after that the HCPB. Suitably refreshed we passed Low Birk Hatt & Hannah's Meadow to make the sometimes boggy journey to Grassholme Reservoir. Crossing the bridge over Grassholme Reservoir we bumped into the HCPB who were resting up after making a good pace from Bowes.
By now we were being to get a bit peckish and were therefore delighted to come across a fantastic pop up Tuck Shop at Wythes Hill Farm. It had the lot - fresh water, chocolate, cold drinks etc therefore we felt it only right to help them with their stock control. All that was left now was to enjoy the gorgeous ascent down into Middleton-in-Teesdale and then wash our dirty pooch off in the River Tees before walking into this delightful market town. Opposite our bed for the night (The Teesdale Hotel) was a pub called The Forresters therefore rather than check in we sat outside in the sun and plugged ourselves in to Cider. Shortly after arriving the 6 HCPB joined us as they were staying here also. Tearing ourselves away we bimbled over the road and headed to the basic but comfortable room.
At Dinner we chatted to Chris who we found out was from Shropshire and would also be staying at Langdon Beck tomorrow night with us. The pub was busy therefore after an excellent meal we headed off to the Co-op to top up with supplies and bumped into Gail who we knew lived in Middleton and is someone we now & then go walking with in the Lake District. We arranged to meet up later maybe and once we had sorted ourselves out with regard to kit etc, met up with Gail & Nev who very kindly gave us some excellent Flapjacks for our journey tomorrow.
From Bowes the route crosses the A66
Whilst there is a bit of road walking out of Bowes it is on a very quiet lane - Chris is ahead in the distance
As in 2015 when we passed by here, the ordnance or toxic material didn't seem to be bothering the grazing sheep!
Levy Pool Farm - looks like they are having the roof re-thatched
The bridge over Deepdale Beck near Levy Pool Farm
Goldsborough
Descending into Baldersdale with Blackton Reservoir ahead
You would think they would use the facilities in their house instead of simply chucking it out of the window
With Fudge near Blackton Bridge
North West of Clove Lodge the Bowes Loop rejoins the main Pennine Way
Blackton Bridge
There is nothing like getting your boots off and having a Cocker Cuddle before lunch
Looking back to Blackton Bridge from near Low Birk Hatt
Good signage near Low Birk Hatt
Low Birk Hatt, the former home of Hannah Hauxwell
Hannah was the subject of several television documentaries. She first came to public attention after being covered in an ITV documentary, "Too Long A Winter" which chronicled the almost unendurable conditions of farmers in the High Pennines. The award winning documentary, first aired in 1973 was an instant success and was followed up in 1989 with "A Winter too Many". A link to the first documentary is here - it is endearing and well worth a watch.
Hannah was the subject of several television documentaries. She first came to public attention after being covered in an ITV documentary, "Too Long A Winter" which chronicled the almost unendurable conditions of farmers in the High Pennines. The award winning documentary, first aired in 1973 was an instant success and was followed up in 1989 with "A Winter too Many". A link to the first documentary is here - it is endearing and well worth a watch.
2015
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2019
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We don't think he has changed much in 4 years
Inqusitive locals near High Birk Hatt
To take advantage of the rainfall there are plenty of reservoirs around here - we were off to another one next - Grassholme.............
............. and here it is
Feed storage barn above Grassholme Farm
It was at this point I had a strange feeling something nice was about to happen.......................
.......... looking good so far................
Get in!! I just love farming diversity - Wythes Hill Farm, you are the best!
A cairn guides the way over Crossthwaite Common
Kirkcarrion
Kirkcarrion is a copse of pine trees surrounded by a stone wall on a hilltop near Middleton-in-Teesdale. The trees cover a tumulus which is said to be the burial place of a Bronze Age chieftain. The trees were planted by Elija Foster and his son Alan Foster of Lowside Farm in 1936.
Kirkcarrion is a copse of pine trees surrounded by a stone wall on a hilltop near Middleton-in-Teesdale. The trees cover a tumulus which is said to be the burial place of a Bronze Age chieftain. The trees were planted by Elija Foster and his son Alan Foster of Lowside Farm in 1936.
Middleton-in-Teesdale ahead
The "County Bridge" over the River Tees which leads to Middleton-in-Teesdale
"Is that it?" Fudge clearly not impressed with the pre dinner snack on offer as we arrived in Middleton
The Home Counties Posh Boys arrived in Middleton shortly after us and clearly had the same idea - beer!
It was too early to check in (it wasn't really) therefore we had a quick snifter before heading over the road to The Teesdale Hotel
The war memorial in Middleton-in-Teesdale
Day 6 Data
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Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Total Ascent |
12.6 miles
71.8 miles 5hrs 40mins 1371ft (418m) |