Day 13 - Monday 20 May 2019
Grindon to Greenhead (13 miles)
As B&Bs go The Old Repeater Station was a cracker. Right on the Wall, in the middle of nowhere and run by one of the nicest and humorous blokes you could ever wish to meet. Les is an absolute diamond who is no slouch in the food department either. After saying goodbye to both Les & John the Trail Magic Baggage bloke we headed back over the road to regain the route via a farm track at Sewing Shields. Having done the majority of this section before, we knew we were in for a cracker of a day and whilst the weather was humid, the sun was out.
Despite it being a Monday there were a few people out & about and just before Busy Gap we had a very pleasant chat with an Australian couple who were walking the Wall. Despite munching on us yesterday, the black flies were out in force again and joined us intermittently. At Near Hotbank Farm we met up with a confused mob of elderly ramblers all arguing about which way to go. I always find that, despite knowing the answer to their navigational issue it is best to keep out of these sort of group chats for fear of spending half an hour dissecting their route and sorting them out - we left them to it.
Reaching Caw Gap we stopped to have a pleasant chat with an elderly German lady who was also walking along the Wall from one end to the other. At only 13 miles today felt a lot longer and the toughness of Hadrian’s Wall should not be underestimated - lots of continuous undulations that make the mileage appear much longer than it actually is. Just before arriving in Greenhead we encountered more stroppy Cattle near Thirlwall Castle however Mr Farmer & his Quad Bike were in attendance and therefore sorted out the bolshy Bovines.
We knew there was a cracking Tea Shop in Greenhead having stopped there during our Pennine Way walk in 2015 and hedge our bets that it probably shut at 1600. Therefore we gave it Billy Big Steps to get there before that time and duly arrived outside their door at 1550 - to find it SHUT!! There was only one thing for it and that was to go over the road to our B&B at The Greenhead Hotel and have a Beer. Since we were last here the Hotel has had a major refurbishment and is now a very pleasant place to lay ones head - we had a lovely big room. After a slightly overcooked Steak washed down with 3 delicious pints of Corby Blonde we entered the land of nod. An absolutely cracking days walking as I hope the pictures below will show.
Despite it being a Monday there were a few people out & about and just before Busy Gap we had a very pleasant chat with an Australian couple who were walking the Wall. Despite munching on us yesterday, the black flies were out in force again and joined us intermittently. At Near Hotbank Farm we met up with a confused mob of elderly ramblers all arguing about which way to go. I always find that, despite knowing the answer to their navigational issue it is best to keep out of these sort of group chats for fear of spending half an hour dissecting their route and sorting them out - we left them to it.
Reaching Caw Gap we stopped to have a pleasant chat with an elderly German lady who was also walking along the Wall from one end to the other. At only 13 miles today felt a lot longer and the toughness of Hadrian’s Wall should not be underestimated - lots of continuous undulations that make the mileage appear much longer than it actually is. Just before arriving in Greenhead we encountered more stroppy Cattle near Thirlwall Castle however Mr Farmer & his Quad Bike were in attendance and therefore sorted out the bolshy Bovines.
We knew there was a cracking Tea Shop in Greenhead having stopped there during our Pennine Way walk in 2015 and hedge our bets that it probably shut at 1600. Therefore we gave it Billy Big Steps to get there before that time and duly arrived outside their door at 1550 - to find it SHUT!! There was only one thing for it and that was to go over the road to our B&B at The Greenhead Hotel and have a Beer. Since we were last here the Hotel has had a major refurbishment and is now a very pleasant place to lay ones head - we had a lovely big room. After a slightly overcooked Steak washed down with 3 delicious pints of Corby Blonde we entered the land of nod. An absolutely cracking days walking as I hope the pictures below will show.
Heading for Sewingshields Crags
Milecastle 35
A Milecastle is a small fort - a rectangular fortification. They were placed at intervals of approximately one Roman Mile along the Wall. Milecastles were initially constructed of stone in the eastern two thirds, and stacked turf with a wooden palisade in the western third, though the turf milecastles were later rebuilt in stone. Size varied, but in general they were about 15m by 18m (16 by 20 yards) internally, with stone walls as much as 3m (10 feet) thick and probably 5m to 6m (17 to 20 feet) high, to match the height of the adjacent wall.
A Milecastle is a small fort - a rectangular fortification. They were placed at intervals of approximately one Roman Mile along the Wall. Milecastles were initially constructed of stone in the eastern two thirds, and stacked turf with a wooden palisade in the western third, though the turf milecastles were later rebuilt in stone. Size varied, but in general they were about 15m by 18m (16 by 20 yards) internally, with stone walls as much as 3m (10 feet) thick and probably 5m to 6m (17 to 20 feet) high, to match the height of the adjacent wall.
The wall continues above Sewingshields Crags
With Fudge at the Trig Point on Sewingshields Crags
From Sewingshields the wall turns due south - Broomlee Lough is the body of water ahead
Looking back to Sewingshields Crags from near Housesteads
Dropping down to The Knag Burn Gateway with Housesteads Roman Fort ahead
The Gateway is one of the few gates through the wall that isn't part of a mile castle or fort. The remains indicate that the structure consisted of a single-lane gateway, with guard-chambers on either side and a gate at each end, thus allowing two-stage controlled passage through the wall. It has been suggested that the gateway was constructed to allow trade traffic through the wall some time in or after the fourth century.
The Gateway is one of the few gates through the wall that isn't part of a mile castle or fort. The remains indicate that the structure consisted of a single-lane gateway, with guard-chambers on either side and a gate at each end, thus allowing two-stage controlled passage through the wall. It has been suggested that the gateway was constructed to allow trade traffic through the wall some time in or after the fourth century.
The Knag Burn Gateway
The remains of an archway near Housesteads Roman Fort
The beginning of the undulations as we approach Hotbank Farm - we were now back on our old friend The Pennine Way
Dropping down to Hotbank with Crag Lough ahead
On Peel Crags above Crag Lough
Dropping down into Sycamore Gap
Sycamore Gap - immortalised in the film Robin Hood Prince of Thieves
No it is not Kevin Costner & Little John - it be Mrs W & Little Fudge
Another view of Sycamore Gap
Milecastle 39 - last time we were here it was full of Cows
Looking back to our descent from Peel Crags into Sycamore Gap
The steep descent from west of Milecastle 39. This can be a busy area as the path heading right leads to the Car Park at Steel Rigg.
Looking back up to the descent
The Trig Point marking the summit of Winshields Crags - at 1131ft (345m) it is the highest point on the entire stretch of Hadrian's Wall
Another of the many steep ups and downs along this section of the Wall
Descending to the road at Caw Gap, Shield on the Wall..............
.......... and here we are. There are two "Shields On the Wall" - the other is at Milecastle 33 which we passed yesterday.
Milecastle 42
Milecastle 42 at Cawfields is believed to have been constructed by the 2nd Augustan Legion and covers an area of 17.8 metres by 14.4 metres. The walls of the milecastle survive to a height of 1.4 metres in places, making it one of the most intact Milecastles on the Wall. It was built to protect Hole Gap, a weak point in the Hadrian's Wall defences.
Milecastle 42 at Cawfields is believed to have been constructed by the 2nd Augustan Legion and covers an area of 17.8 metres by 14.4 metres. The walls of the milecastle survive to a height of 1.4 metres in places, making it one of the most intact Milecastles on the Wall. It was built to protect Hole Gap, a weak point in the Hadrian's Wall defences.
Cawfields Quarry
The quarrying that produced the picturesque reservoir above may well have begun at the time Hadrian's Wall was built, but it was not until 1902 that the Newcastle Granite & Whinstone Company began to quarry Cawfield seriously. Quarrying continued until 1952 when pressure from groups interested in preserving Hadrian's Wall forced the closure of the site. The deep quarry pit became a reservoir, landscaped to provide a picnic area with access to the Wall.
The quarrying that produced the picturesque reservoir above may well have begun at the time Hadrian's Wall was built, but it was not until 1902 that the Newcastle Granite & Whinstone Company began to quarry Cawfield seriously. Quarrying continued until 1952 when pressure from groups interested in preserving Hadrian's Wall forced the closure of the site. The deep quarry pit became a reservoir, landscaped to provide a picnic area with access to the Wall.
Turret 45A near Walltown
He'll do anything for a dog treat - and so will Fudge
Not far to go now as Thirlwall Castle is very close to Greenhead
Thirlwall Castle
The castle sits on the bank of the River Tipalt close to the village of Greenhead. It was built in the 12th century and later strengthened using stones from Hadrian's Wall but began to fall into disrepair in the 17th century. The site is Grade 1 Listed.
The castle sits on the bank of the River Tipalt close to the village of Greenhead. It was built in the 12th century and later strengthened using stones from Hadrian's Wall but began to fall into disrepair in the 17th century. The site is Grade 1 Listed.
That's it my boy - look after your kit and it will look after you
Day 13 Data
|
Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Total Ascent |
13 miles
146.1 6hrs 30mins 1699ft (518m) |