Day 2 - Thursday 31 October 2024
Warkworth to Craster (14.2 miles)
Early doors in Warkworth at Dial Place. We had driven to Craster this morning and caught the bus back along the coast to the start of our second day on the path. The building to the rear is the Church of St Lawrence.
The Market Cross in Warkworth looking up to the Castle. The cross dates back to about 1830 though it stands on what seems to be a much older base.
The River Coquet looking downstream to Warkworth Bridge
Looking over to the north bank of the River Coquet
Crossing Warkworth Bridge
The bridge was built in about 1380, complete with a defensive tower at its southern end (behind me as I take the photograph). It replaced an earlier arched stone bridge of indeterminate date. As Angie is proving, the bridge can still be crossed today, on foot, having been replaced for vehicle traffic by a modern bridge that opened in 1965 which can just about be seen to the right. It is the only surviving fortified bridge in England.
The bridge was built in about 1380, complete with a defensive tower at its southern end (behind me as I take the photograph). It replaced an earlier arched stone bridge of indeterminate date. As Angie is proving, the bridge can still be crossed today, on foot, having been replaced for vehicle traffic by a modern bridge that opened in 1965 which can just about be seen to the right. It is the only surviving fortified bridge in England.
Looking west down the River Coquet
Once over the bridge, the route crosses the A1068 on to the St Oswald's Way and the coast path
Looking over The Butts to Warkworth Castle
Yes - we were heading North
The route heads gently down a gravel track to the right of Warkworth Golf Club to reach the coast
Here we are - back on the beach again and in for another good weather day hopefully
Birling Links
A big lump of flotsam on the beach at Birling Links
The phrase 'flotsam and jetsam' is often used to describe 'odds and ends' of marine debris associated with vessels. However each word has a specific meaning under maritime law. Flotsam is defined as debris in the water that was not deliberately thrown overboard, often as a result from a shipwreck or accident. Jetsam describes debris that was deliberately thrown overboard by a crew of a ship in distress, most often to lighten the ship's load.
Anyway, moving on......................!
The phrase 'flotsam and jetsam' is often used to describe 'odds and ends' of marine debris associated with vessels. However each word has a specific meaning under maritime law. Flotsam is defined as debris in the water that was not deliberately thrown overboard, often as a result from a shipwreck or accident. Jetsam describes debris that was deliberately thrown overboard by a crew of a ship in distress, most often to lighten the ship's load.
Anyway, moving on......................!
Once again we were feeling shadows of our former selves
Looking back along Birling Links - what a glorious view
The rocky sea outcrops at Birling Carrs
Weathered rock at Birling Carrs - years and years of the incoming and outgoing tide plus the wind makes for lovely patterns on the rock. Thankfully the rocks were pretty dry but there were some algae covered ones about therefore we had to be careful crossing over wet rock.
The Loneliness of the Long Distance Walker (Click Play to view)
At Buston Links with Alnmouth ahead - the promontory in the centre is Church Hill
To reach Alnmouth it is necessary to head inland as there is no direct access across the Aln Estuary unless the tide is extremely low.
The beautiful carved memorial bench to Michelle Turnbull
Alnmouth is on Sustrans National Cycle Network Route 1
Eventually the route reaches the outskirts of Alnmouth and the B1338 to head towards Duchess Bridge. The village is so named because it sits at the mouth of the River Aln.
On the other side of Duchess Bridge the route heads down Lovers' Walk - thankfully no sign of any.
Sssshhhh - I wonder if they dance to this below? Takes me back to my yoof!
Duchess Bridge over the River Aln at Alnmouth
The bridge opened in 1864 and is dedicated to Eleanor, Duchess of Northumberland who paid for it.
The bridge opened in 1864 and is dedicated to Eleanor, Duchess of Northumberland who paid for it.
This lad was a big old unit and was not interested in us in the slightest - just in filling his stomach
Looking out over the estuary in Alnmouth is Church Hill with a cross sitting on top known as St Cuthbert's Cross. Little is known about the cross other than that it was rumoured to be the location where St Cuthbert agreed to become Bishop of Lindisfarne when petitioned by the King.
St Cuthbert's Cross, Church Hill
Source: Fabulous North
Source: Fabulous North
Oh look - a cafe. Silly not to have a bit of lunch there I suppose.
Nanna Pats - our kind of place and purveyors of fine Cheese & Ham Toasties
Alnmouth Pant
A "Pant" is primarily a drinking fountain and is often used as a War Memorial or as a commemoration of a Coronation
A "Pant" is primarily a drinking fountain and is often used as a War Memorial or as a commemoration of a Coronation
Leaving Alnmouth a gently rising path heads along Bracken Hill above the beach
"It's a perfect love" stone on Bracken Hill, Alnmouth
The sandstone sculpture was installed in June 2024 and was designed and crafted by Luke Batchelor. The inscription is part of a poem by Judith Hill, who lived locally.
The sandstone sculpture was installed in June 2024 and was designed and crafted by Luke Batchelor. The inscription is part of a poem by Judith Hill, who lived locally.
Alnmouth Beacon
The beacon was erected in 1988 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Spanish Armada. The lighting of the beacon takes place to mark special events however it has not been without incident - on Christmas Eve 2023, firefighters had to put out a large fire caused when the flames got out of control resulting in much damage to Bracken Hill.
The beacon was erected in 1988 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Spanish Armada. The lighting of the beacon takes place to mark special events however it has not been without incident - on Christmas Eve 2023, firefighters had to put out a large fire caused when the flames got out of control resulting in much damage to Bracken Hill.
Looking down on Alnmouth Golf Club from Bracken Hill. The club was established in 1869 and is the 4th oldest golf club in England.
A derelict Pill Box on Bracken Hill
This Pill Box otherwise known as a casemate (fortified gun emplacement) is contructed on an old battery which was built in 1881. During World War II, these types of bunkers were used for the defence of the United Kingdom against a possible enemy invasion.
This Pill Box otherwise known as a casemate (fortified gun emplacement) is contructed on an old battery which was built in 1881. During World War II, these types of bunkers were used for the defence of the United Kingdom against a possible enemy invasion.
Crossing Alnmouth Golf Club - thankfully no shouts of "FORE!!" today
The clubhouse of Alnmouth Golf Club, Foxton Hall. It is open to walkers however having just refreshed ourselves in Alnmouth, we ploughed on.
The route passes through then alongside the golf club - as can be seen, it was still a fair old schlep to Craster
Approaching Boulmer
As can be seen, the pub in Boulmer was very, very shut
This made us chuckle
Longhoughton Beach just north of Boulmer
Crossing Howick Burn at Low Stead Links. This area is a Site of Special Scientific Interest
Approaching the area known as Rumbling Kern
Rumbling Kern
Rumbling Kern was a favoured location of Charles the 2nd Earl Grey - the geezer that had the tea named after him.
Rumbling Kern was a favoured location of Charles the 2nd Earl Grey - the geezer that had the tea named after him.
The Bathing House
The property was built in the early 19th century by the 2nd Earl Grey who was the Prime Minister responsible for the passing of the Great Reform Bill of 1832 and whose monument stands at the top of Grey Street in Newcastle upon Tyne. He had 16 children and the house was built specifically for the family to go bathing. The design of the house includes a large upstairs sitting room (now the main bedroom) where Lady Grey used to sit and watch the children bathe, and where tea was served by the caretaker who lived below. The Bathing House is now owned by Howick Trustees Ltd, a charitable trust who also own Howick Hall. The property can be hired and sleeps 6 - as of writing the house is fully booked until January 2026 when it is available for ............. £2k a week!!
The property was built in the early 19th century by the 2nd Earl Grey who was the Prime Minister responsible for the passing of the Great Reform Bill of 1832 and whose monument stands at the top of Grey Street in Newcastle upon Tyne. He had 16 children and the house was built specifically for the family to go bathing. The design of the house includes a large upstairs sitting room (now the main bedroom) where Lady Grey used to sit and watch the children bathe, and where tea was served by the caretaker who lived below. The Bathing House is now owned by Howick Trustees Ltd, a charitable trust who also own Howick Hall. The property can be hired and sleeps 6 - as of writing the house is fully booked until January 2026 when it is available for ............. £2k a week!!
Approaching Cullernose Point
Rounding Cullernose Point, the fishing village of Craster comes into view
Arriving in Craster there was only one thing for it - a drink in The Jolly Fisherman
The Jolly Fisherman front entrance - a nice pub however the Diet Coke was a bit on the pricey side
Opposite the Jolly Fisherman is the Robson Kipper Smokehouse
The Smokehouse is now the only one located in Craster. As with the Newmarket sausage or the Stornoway black pudding, the Craster kipper is a British food named after, and strongly associated with, its place of origin. Although the herrings used for Craster kippers may no longer be strictly local, the defining characteristic of the Craster kipper is that the smoking process takes place in a smokehouse located in or around the village of Craster. The village is considered the birthplace of the kipper although this is disputed by other places including Seahouses just a few miles up the coast.
The Smokehouse is now the only one located in Craster. As with the Newmarket sausage or the Stornoway black pudding, the Craster kipper is a British food named after, and strongly associated with, its place of origin. Although the herrings used for Craster kippers may no longer be strictly local, the defining characteristic of the Craster kipper is that the smoking process takes place in a smokehouse located in or around the village of Craster. The village is considered the birthplace of the kipper although this is disputed by other places including Seahouses just a few miles up the coast.
Craster Harbour
GPX Files - if these are required then please use the Contact Form to let me know and I will gladly forward them on
Day 2 Data
|
Mileage
Cumulative Mileage Time Total Ascent |
14.2 miles
27.4 miles 6hrs 25mins 1036ft (316m) |