Etal & Ford - Tuesday 23 September 2025
Route
Etal - Etal Castle - River Till - Tindal House - Greenlaw Walls - Etal Moor - Kennel Wood - Hay Farm - Ford - Ford Castle - Ford Bridge - River Till - Heatherslaw Mill - Etal
Parking
Free parking in Etal at the Village Hall. The Grid Reference is NT 92748 39434 and the nearest postcode is TD12 4TL.
Mileage
10.6 miles
Terrain
Field and riverside paths, farm tracks with some walking along very quiet lanes.
Weather
Perfect - sunshine with no wind
Time Taken
4hrs 20mins
Total Ascent
787ft (240m)
Map
OS Explorer 339 - Kelso, Coldstream & Lower Tweed Valley
Walkers
Dave with Angie & Robbie joining me for a short time at the start and meeting up in Ford for lunch
Etal - Etal Castle - River Till - Tindal House - Greenlaw Walls - Etal Moor - Kennel Wood - Hay Farm - Ford - Ford Castle - Ford Bridge - River Till - Heatherslaw Mill - Etal
Parking
Free parking in Etal at the Village Hall. The Grid Reference is NT 92748 39434 and the nearest postcode is TD12 4TL.
Mileage
10.6 miles
Terrain
Field and riverside paths, farm tracks with some walking along very quiet lanes.
Weather
Perfect - sunshine with no wind
Time Taken
4hrs 20mins
Total Ascent
787ft (240m)
Map
OS Explorer 339 - Kelso, Coldstream & Lower Tweed Valley
Walkers
Dave with Angie & Robbie joining me for a short time at the start and meeting up in Ford for lunch
GPX Files
From 1 March 2025 GPX files will not be available directly from the walk page as there is difficulty in using a downloadable version from the website. To that end, if you require a GPX File please get in touch via the Contact Form below and we will gladly forward it to you - thank you.
From 1 March 2025 GPX files will not be available directly from the walk page as there is difficulty in using a downloadable version from the website. To that end, if you require a GPX File please get in touch via the Contact Form below and we will gladly forward it to you - thank you.
Route Map
To the right of the Village Hall in Etal is a large Car Park which is free to use
Today's walk would be a wander through Etal & Ford. The two small villages close to the Scottish Border form Ford & Etal Estates which has been the home of the Joicey family for over 100 years. The present Lord Joicey’s great-grandfather, the 1st Baron Joicey, purchased Ford Estate in 1907 from the Waterford family. One year later, in 1908, he purchased the adjoining Etal Estate, uniting the two under one ownership for the first time in history. Having walked through both villages, it is clear to see that they are in very good hands.
A link to the Ford & Etal Estates website is here
Today's walk would be a wander through Etal & Ford. The two small villages close to the Scottish Border form Ford & Etal Estates which has been the home of the Joicey family for over 100 years. The present Lord Joicey’s great-grandfather, the 1st Baron Joicey, purchased Ford Estate in 1907 from the Waterford family. One year later, in 1908, he purchased the adjoining Etal Estate, uniting the two under one ownership for the first time in history. Having walked through both villages, it is clear to see that they are in very good hands.
A link to the Ford & Etal Estates website is here
Etal Village Hall
The hall was originally opened in 1926 as a reading room for Etal village. In September 2005 the hall was awarded grants totalling just over £198,000 to build a new extension and provide funding for a complete refurbishment to bring the village hall into the 21st century and to provide a focus for the community.
The hall was originally opened in 1926 as a reading room for Etal village. In September 2005 the hall was awarded grants totalling just over £198,000 to build a new extension and provide funding for a complete refurbishment to bring the village hall into the 21st century and to provide a focus for the community.
To the left of the Village Hall is the picturesque and very "Chocolate Box" Black Bull which is the only thatched roof pub in Northumberland. We didn't go in during our visit but will do when we visit again in the future.
Just over the road from the village pub is Etal Post Office which houses The Lavender Tea Rooms. At the time of writing (2025) the Tea Room is open daily from 1000 (closed on Fridays). A link to their website is here.
At 1000 on the dot we sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed a couple of their excellent breakfast rolls. As you can see, 6 month old Robbie looks at me with the vague hope that his newly honed skill of "sorrowful and starving hungry" eyes will work some magic.
He was fresh out.
He was fresh out.
Just along the road from the cafe the route reaches the impressive gate house of Etal Castle
Etal was an important medieval stronghold on the border between England & Scotland and was the home of the Manners family from the mid 12th century until 1547. The castle provided greater protection against raiding by the Scots and was also a response to the Manners intense rivalry with the Heron family at nearby Ford Castle. Following the union of the crowns of England & Scotland in 1603, Etal Castle no longer had a military purpose and slowly decayed. Presently, the castle is managed by English Heritage.
Etal was an important medieval stronghold on the border between England & Scotland and was the home of the Manners family from the mid 12th century until 1547. The castle provided greater protection against raiding by the Scots and was also a response to the Manners intense rivalry with the Heron family at nearby Ford Castle. Following the union of the crowns of England & Scotland in 1603, Etal Castle no longer had a military purpose and slowly decayed. Presently, the castle is managed by English Heritage.
Robbie being dwarfed by the the earliest part of the castle known as the residential tower. This tower may have been built around 1341 on the site of an older, unfortified house owned by the family on the same site, incorporating part of the structure into the new as can be seen by the lighter sandstone used on the upper levels.
The inner part of the gate house with the curtain wall to the right. Only this southern section remains of the curtain wall that would have linked all 4 towers of the castle.
Another view of the residential tower, this time from near the gate house
The interior of the gate house and impressive portcullis
Just outside the main entrance to the gate house are a pair of 18th century cannons. The nine-pounder cannons are said to have been salvaged from HMS Royal George, an English ship that sank in 1782 with at least 800 men, women and children losing their lives. The cannons would have fired solid iron balls for distances of up to a mile.
With Robbie at the rear of Etal Castle on the path that leads down to Etal Station
Just a couple of hundred yards from the castle is Etal Station and the train turning circle on the Heatherslaw Light Railway
I would pass through Heatherslaw Station later on in this walk. The railway is England's most northerly steam railway on a charming 4 mile journey between Heatherslaw & Etal. The railway is a 15 inch narrow gauge and runs alongside the River Till through beautiful countryside. A link to the railway's website is here.
I would pass through Heatherslaw Station later on in this walk. The railway is England's most northerly steam railway on a charming 4 mile journey between Heatherslaw & Etal. The railway is a 15 inch narrow gauge and runs alongside the River Till through beautiful countryside. A link to the railway's website is here.
From the station I passed through the castle once more to rejoin the route at the western edge of Etal village
Heading west out of Etal the route heads down to the River Till to join a waymarked footpath to Tindal House
The ford over the River Till - not passable on foot today, thankfully our route did not cross here
The ford over the River Till (Click Play to view)
Robbie in investigative mode as we head along the footpath - we are lucky with him as he is whistle trained and never strays too far, always popping back to check where we are.
The remains of St Mary's Chantry Chapel
The chapel was built in 1345 and commissioned by Sir Robert de Manners of Etal Castle. In medieval times, Chantry Chapels were founded by the wealthy who wished to shorten their time in purgatory before entering heaven. A priest was employed to sing masses for the founders soul and others of their choosing. Chantry Chapels were not just an affirmation of faith, they were a statement of power as only the rich could afford to have them commissioned and maintained.
The foundation stones below were probably rearranged in a later century as the chapel would have had an east to west orientation not north to south. The stone cross below was placed here by Lady Augusta Fitzclarence, owner of Etal in the 19th century.
The chapel was built in 1345 and commissioned by Sir Robert de Manners of Etal Castle. In medieval times, Chantry Chapels were founded by the wealthy who wished to shorten their time in purgatory before entering heaven. A priest was employed to sing masses for the founders soul and others of their choosing. Chantry Chapels were not just an affirmation of faith, they were a statement of power as only the rich could afford to have them commissioned and maintained.
The foundation stones below were probably rearranged in a later century as the chapel would have had an east to west orientation not north to south. The stone cross below was placed here by Lady Augusta Fitzclarence, owner of Etal in the 19th century.
Soon be time for you to go back to Etal with your Mum Robbie - I'll see you both in Ford later
This was a delightful section of path heading alongside the River Till - and nobody else here
Bye Robbie - see you later
On the right of the path is a memorial stone (origin and details unknown)
Above the river on the left are the overgrown remains of Etal Barley Mill, otherwise known as Etal Low Mill
The route continues alongside the river passing a seat sculpture - this really was a beautiful section of the walk
The serene River Till (Click Play to view)
Another shot of the quiet and beautiful River Till
Crossing the footbridge over Duddomill Burn
Just after the footbridge at Grid Reference NT 92692 40898 the path splits. I would be heading right here in the direction of Tindal House - it should be noted that Tiptoe & Twizel are actual places and not characters from a children's book.
Passing Tindal House
Looking over the hedge I got my first view of The Cheviots
At Grid Reference NT 92197 41204 just above Tindal House the route splits again - I headed to the right along a Public Bridleway
Heading along the Public Bridleway which is the access road to Tindal House
The bridleway eventually reaches a minor road and it was here that I turned to the right and headed down the hill
After just over a quarter of a mile at Grid Reference NT 93226 41550, a field path heads off the minor road towards Greenlaw Walls
The field path ends at another road where I turned left for 140 yards to then head right along the access track to Greenlaw Walls
Heading through the farm buildings at Greenlaw Walls
Once through Greenlaw Walls the route follows a farm track towards Whispering Wood
From Whispering Wood I headed on a good path along a field edge towards Longheugh Crags
The route arrived at another quiet lane which I crossed to continue on towards Etal Moor via a field path
At the end of the field path, the route enters a small plantation below Longheugh Crags
The lower section of Longheugh Crags
The route exits the woodland via another small stile to head along the right hand edge of the fence ahead towards Pig's Plantation
Entering the northern end of Pig's Plantation via a ladder stile
A gate is reached which leads to Etal Moor
Heading across Etal Moor - on a day like today this was a glorious section of walking
Near Slainsfield Wood at the start of a tarmac track I was greeted by a friendly group of Belted Galloways. These are the most placid of breeds and in all my years of walking I have never met any that are in the least bit bothered by the presence of humans or dogs.
Leaving Etal Moor I joined a very quiet lane in the direction of Hay Farm
A glorious uninterrupted view of The Cheviots
Reaching Hay Farm I turned left off the lane to head through the farm buildings
Hay Farm Heavy Horse Centre is run on a ‘not-for-profit’ basis, and all activities are carried out to raise funds which are ploughed back into the centre for running costs and continual development. Hay Farm is now the only Rare Breed Approved Conservation Centre in the country dedicated to Heavy Horses. Visitors can view and get up close to the Clydesdale Heavy Horses and other animals, which would have been commonplace in the era of the working horse. These include the now very rare British Lop-Eared pigs, including boar Dominic and sows Fleur and Letty, and the Sebastopol Geese.
A link to Hay Farm's website is here
Hay Farm Heavy Horse Centre is run on a ‘not-for-profit’ basis, and all activities are carried out to raise funds which are ploughed back into the centre for running costs and continual development. Hay Farm is now the only Rare Breed Approved Conservation Centre in the country dedicated to Heavy Horses. Visitors can view and get up close to the Clydesdale Heavy Horses and other animals, which would have been commonplace in the era of the working horse. These include the now very rare British Lop-Eared pigs, including boar Dominic and sows Fleur and Letty, and the Sebastopol Geese.
A link to Hay Farm's website is here
Think you need a few more signs on your garage door .................
............ however this one was particularly apt I thought
One of the Heavy Horses at Hay Farm - sadly he wasn't in the mood for photography or a chat
The Horseshoe Forge in Ford - now an antiques shop, however the building was in use as a Blacksmith's Forge up until the 1970s
The former Reading Rooms in Ford, now home to Ravn Clay Studio Pottery
Opposite Ravn Clay is the Ford Village Shop, Post Office, B&B & Cafe
Hello mate - good to see you again (and your Mum of course)
Opposite Lady Waterford Hall is the Grade II listed Ford Pant
“Pant” is a Northumbrian word for a public water fountain or well. This would have been a place of congregation for the villagers to collect water.
“Pant” is a Northumbrian word for a public water fountain or well. This would have been a place of congregation for the villagers to collect water.
At the south western end of the village stands The Waterford Memorial and to the left rear is Lady Waterford Hall. The hall was built as the village school by Lady Waterford in 1860 and had pupils until 1957 when it became the Village Hall which it still is today.
The memorial and statue, known as the Ford Angel Memorial were erected by Lady Louisa Waterford in memory of her husband Henry de la Poer Beresford, 3rd Marquis of Waterford, who died in a hunting accident in Ireland in 1859 leaving his wife a widow at just 40. Lady Waterford moved to Ford and devoted the rest of her life to improving the estate for her tenants and laying out Ford village in its present plan. It was erected in 1864 but the statue of the Archangel Michael was removed in October 2021 after an inspection revealed there was significant damage to both the granite plinth and the limestone capitol which supports the angel figure. In 2024 after extensive repairs in Edinburgh, the statue was returned to its home.
The memorial and statue, known as the Ford Angel Memorial were erected by Lady Louisa Waterford in memory of her husband Henry de la Poer Beresford, 3rd Marquis of Waterford, who died in a hunting accident in Ireland in 1859 leaving his wife a widow at just 40. Lady Waterford moved to Ford and devoted the rest of her life to improving the estate for her tenants and laying out Ford village in its present plan. It was erected in 1864 but the statue of the Archangel Michael was removed in October 2021 after an inspection revealed there was significant damage to both the granite plinth and the limestone capitol which supports the angel figure. In 2024 after extensive repairs in Edinburgh, the statue was returned to its home.
Near the entrance to Ford Castle are two mosaic windows
Near the Ford Angel Statue is a tree lined path that leads to Ford Castle
Before visiting Ford Castle, we headed down to St Michael & All Angels Church which sits a few yards south of the castle entrance
The church is in a magnificent setting with a fine view of the Cheviot and Flodden Hill from the porch. The building dates from the 13th century and has always been closely associated with Ford Castle and whoever owned it.
A panorama of Ford Castle
The impressive entrance to Ford Castle
The castle dates from around 1278 and over the years has seen its fair share of trouble, dismantling & remodelling. One such incident of mention is that the castle was taken by James IV of Scotland on the eve of the Battle of Flodden in 1513. In 1862 the property passed into the hands of the Waterford family until 1907 when it was bought by the coal-mining magnate James Joicey, 1st Baron Joicey, and it remained with his family. In 1956 it was leased to Northumberland County Council as a Young Persons' Residential Centre. In 2022, Ford Castle was acquired by PGL which now operates the site as an outdoor activity centre offering residential trips for schools, groups, and young people.
The castle dates from around 1278 and over the years has seen its fair share of trouble, dismantling & remodelling. One such incident of mention is that the castle was taken by James IV of Scotland on the eve of the Battle of Flodden in 1513. In 1862 the property passed into the hands of the Waterford family until 1907 when it was bought by the coal-mining magnate James Joicey, 1st Baron Joicey, and it remained with his family. In 1956 it was leased to Northumberland County Council as a Young Persons' Residential Centre. In 2022, Ford Castle was acquired by PGL which now operates the site as an outdoor activity centre offering residential trips for schools, groups, and young people.
The castle view from just inside the Portcullis entrance. There was an activity day in progress therefore we waited until the area was free of screaming brats before taking this photograph.
With Angie & Robbie heading by car to Etal, I departed Ford Castle via the western exit which leads to the B6354
Over the road, I headed along the B6354 to cross the River Till via Ford Bridge
The peaceful & serene River Till from Ford Bridge
On the other side of the bridge a gate on the right leads to the riverside walk to Heatherslaw
Heading along the western bank of the River Till. Whilst not much of the river is seen, this was still a delightful walk.
Arriving in Heatherslaw
Heatherslaw Corn Mill
Stoneground flour & oats have been milled on this site since the 13th century. Today, the huge waterwheel still powers a series of cogs & gears to drive the massive mill stone. The mechanisation of the mill has changed very little since it was built.
Stoneground flour & oats have been milled on this site since the 13th century. Today, the huge waterwheel still powers a series of cogs & gears to drive the massive mill stone. The mechanisation of the mill has changed very little since it was built.
Leaving Heatherslaw Mill - the sign is an engraved former mill stone
Leaving the mill, I crossed the River Till by way of a footbridge which leads to the Heatherslaw Light Railway
Heatherslaw Station which is built on the site of the old Ford & Etal Sawmill. The railway was established in 1989 by Neville Smith & Sid Ford and runs from the end of March to October.
Leaving the station I joined a roadside path to Etal that runs alongside the B6354
You can't beat a bit of Bully and I'm glad he was the other side of the fence. In the words of Peter Potter (Terry Scott) from Carry on Camping - "I wouldn't try milking that one, it's only got one tap".
At the turn off for Leatham Hill the path ends and crosses over the B6354 to follow the pavement into Etal
Entering Etal
Nearing Etal the route passes the entrance to Tillside Cricket Club - no sound of leather on willow today unfortunately
Passing the entrance to Etal Manor and its quaint gate house. The manor is home to the Joicey family and not open to the public although the gardens sometimes are.
To the right of the gate house is the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Construction on the chapel began in 1856 and the building was consecrated for worship in 1859 as a chapel under the parish church at Ford.
After a drink at the cafe in Etal we made our way back to Belford - someone has had a tiring but fun filled day