Dunnottar Castle - Friday 4 October 2024
Route
Stonehaven - Bervie Braes - Black Hill - Strathlethen Bay - Castle Haven - Dunnottar Castle - Black Hill - Bervie Braes - Stonehaven
Parking
The Backies Car Park Stonehaven (Free). The Grid Reference is NO 87848 85549 and the nearest postcode is AB39 2JQ.
Mileage
5.4 miles
Terrain
Quiet lanes, pebble beach and clifftop paths
Weather
Strong winds at times remaining overcast throughout
Time Taken
2hrs 40mins
Total Ascent
1450ft (442m)
Map
OS Explorer 396 Stonehaven, Inverbervie & Laurencekirk
Walkers
Dave & Angie
Stonehaven - Bervie Braes - Black Hill - Strathlethen Bay - Castle Haven - Dunnottar Castle - Black Hill - Bervie Braes - Stonehaven
Parking
The Backies Car Park Stonehaven (Free). The Grid Reference is NO 87848 85549 and the nearest postcode is AB39 2JQ.
Mileage
5.4 miles
Terrain
Quiet lanes, pebble beach and clifftop paths
Weather
Strong winds at times remaining overcast throughout
Time Taken
2hrs 40mins
Total Ascent
1450ft (442m)
Map
OS Explorer 396 Stonehaven, Inverbervie & Laurencekirk
Walkers
Dave & Angie
|
GPX File
|
| ||
If the above GPX file fails to download or presents itself as an XML file once downloaded then please feel free to contact me and I will send you the GPX file via e-mail.
Route Map
There is plenty of parking in Stonehaven however we used The Backies down by the harbour - mainly because it gave us a nice view of the bins before we started the walk. We like parking in Scotland as most of it is free - south of the border take note!
Stonehaven's claim to fame - thankfully the Chippy was shut therefore temptation was avoided
The harbour frontage at Stonehaven
Stonehaven Harbour
The harbour was first built prior to 1607 but was destroyed by storms. It was repaired and once again suffered at the hands of heavy storms. In 1678 it was built more robustly but this too broke up under the force of the North Sea. A new plan was drawn up in 1825 by Robert Stevenson and the harbour works were constructed successfully. The harbour was handed over to Stonehaven Town Council in 1962. Stonehaven is widely recognised as one of Scotland's foremost holiday resorts and boasts a modern leisure centre and heated outdoor swimming pool. Whilst no longer a substantial fishing port, the harbour does have a few boats that fish from here however the harbour is mainly used for recreational purposes.
The harbour was first built prior to 1607 but was destroyed by storms. It was repaired and once again suffered at the hands of heavy storms. In 1678 it was built more robustly but this too broke up under the force of the North Sea. A new plan was drawn up in 1825 by Robert Stevenson and the harbour works were constructed successfully. The harbour was handed over to Stonehaven Town Council in 1962. Stonehaven is widely recognised as one of Scotland's foremost holiday resorts and boasts a modern leisure centre and heated outdoor swimming pool. Whilst no longer a substantial fishing port, the harbour does have a few boats that fish from here however the harbour is mainly used for recreational purposes.
The Tolbooth
This is the oldest building in Stonehaven and was constructed circa 1600 by the Earl Marischal as a store during the building of Dunnottar Castle. In 1600, an Act of Parliament provided that the building become the administrative centre for Stonehaven. After 1624, the town business functions were conducted on the upper level of the Stonehaven Tolbooth, with the ground floor being used as the prison. It remained a courthouse (upper floor) and prison (ground floor) until 1767 when these activities were relocated to a new municipal building at the junction of the High Street and Dunnottar Avenue. The building then reverted as a store until the 1950s by which time it had fallen into disrepair. In 1963 the building was renovated and officially re-opened by Her Majesty the Queen Mother. In 1975 further work saw the upper floor converted into a museum reflecting Stonehaven’s long history. Currently the museum occupies the ground floor whilst a separate restaurant operates on the upper floor.
This is the oldest building in Stonehaven and was constructed circa 1600 by the Earl Marischal as a store during the building of Dunnottar Castle. In 1600, an Act of Parliament provided that the building become the administrative centre for Stonehaven. After 1624, the town business functions were conducted on the upper level of the Stonehaven Tolbooth, with the ground floor being used as the prison. It remained a courthouse (upper floor) and prison (ground floor) until 1767 when these activities were relocated to a new municipal building at the junction of the High Street and Dunnottar Avenue. The building then reverted as a store until the 1950s by which time it had fallen into disrepair. In 1963 the building was renovated and officially re-opened by Her Majesty the Queen Mother. In 1975 further work saw the upper floor converted into a museum reflecting Stonehaven’s long history. Currently the museum occupies the ground floor whilst a separate restaurant operates on the upper floor.
The entrance to The Tolbooth Museum - free to enter however donations are very welcome
Stonehaven Clock Tower with the Mercat Cross below
The Clock Tower was built in 1790 by the Magistrates of the old Burgh of Barony with the expense being met by the Common Good Fund. The tower was built to house the town bell but this proved too small and was subsequently replaced by a larger bell in 1793.
The Clock Tower was built in 1790 by the Magistrates of the old Burgh of Barony with the expense being met by the Common Good Fund. The tower was built to house the town bell but this proved too small and was subsequently replaced by a larger bell in 1793.
The Mercat Cross & Barometer below the Clock Tower
The Mercat Cross dates from at least 1645 with a modern head added to celebrate Queen Victoria's Jubilee in 1887. The Mercat Cross was traditionally a symbol of the trading rites of Scottish market towns and villages. A law passed by King William I (1165-1214) required that all goods for sale in burghs be presented at the "mercat and mercat cross". Not only were crosses centres of trade and symbols of a town's trading status, they were also used as sites of proclamation and punishments of criminals, usually in the form of public humiliation.
The Barometer was installed in the first floor window in 1852 and was of great use to the fishing community. It was restored to its present condition by the Stonehaven Heritage Society.
The Mercat Cross dates from at least 1645 with a modern head added to celebrate Queen Victoria's Jubilee in 1887. The Mercat Cross was traditionally a symbol of the trading rites of Scottish market towns and villages. A law passed by King William I (1165-1214) required that all goods for sale in burghs be presented at the "mercat and mercat cross". Not only were crosses centres of trade and symbols of a town's trading status, they were also used as sites of proclamation and punishments of criminals, usually in the form of public humiliation.
The Barometer was installed in the first floor window in 1852 and was of great use to the fishing community. It was restored to its present condition by the Stonehaven Heritage Society.
"Nah sod it Bill, just put the ladder up and leave that wheelbarrow there mate - nobody will need rescuing today"
From the harbour the route heads up Wallace Wynd..........
...... and up Castle Street which ends at a path which then zig zags up on to the headland
The zig zag path leads to a slate cairn on Bervie Braes
Stonehaven and its harbour from Bervie Braes
The route continues along Bervie Braes for approximately 400 yards then leaves to follow the access path to the War Memorial which can be seen in the distance
After a short stroll along the headland the route arrives at the entrance to Stonehaven's War Memorial on Black Hill
Just before reaching the memorial there is a commemorative stone marking the 100 year anniversary which took place in 2023
The Stonehaven War Memorial on Black Hill
Built in 1922 and officially unveiled in 1923, the memorial commemorates the dead of the two World Wars and was designed by local architect John Ellis. Constructed of local sandstone, the memorial mimics a ruined Greek Temple and was deliberately designed to signify the many shortened and ruined lives caused by the conflict of the First World War.
Built in 1922 and officially unveiled in 1923, the memorial commemorates the dead of the two World Wars and was designed by local architect John Ellis. Constructed of local sandstone, the memorial mimics a ruined Greek Temple and was deliberately designed to signify the many shortened and ruined lives caused by the conflict of the First World War.
The large tablet in the centre of the memorial detailing the people that made the ultimate sacrifice
Strathlethen Bay and a distant Dunnottar Castle from Black Hill
Strathlethen Bay and the sea stack of Dunnicaer to the left
A quick chat with the locals near Bowdun Head
Dunnottar Castle across the bay of Castle Haven
At Grid Reference NO 87970 84410 the path splits. We would be dropping down to the shoreline and heading to the castle from below. We would be returning to Stonehaven via the path on the right.
The path descends gently to the rocky beach
Looking to Dunnottar Castle from Castle Haven
Reaching the shoreline it was an easy walk along the rocky beach to arrive below Dunnottar Castle
The rocky headland of Castle Haven
Looking back to Bowdun Head
The beach at Castle Haven (Click Play to view)
Arriving below the castle entrance, a path leads from the shoreline to the lower castle access point
The sea stacks below Dunnottar Castle
From the beach the castle is accessed via a stone staircase
Of 14th Century origin, the castle is perched atop a 160 foot rock and surrounded on three sides by the North Sea. These dramatic and evocative cliff-top ruins were once an impregnable fortress of the Earls Marischal, once one of the most powerful families in Scotland. For over 1000 years Dunnottar Castle played a crucial role in Scottish history and holds many rich secrets of Scotland’s colourful past. The Castle has played host to some of the nation's greatest historical figures including William Wallace and Mary Queen of Scots and is famous for its role in saving the Honours of Scotland (the Scottish Crown Jewels) from Oliver Cromwell's army in the 1650s.
Of 14th Century origin, the castle is perched atop a 160 foot rock and surrounded on three sides by the North Sea. These dramatic and evocative cliff-top ruins were once an impregnable fortress of the Earls Marischal, once one of the most powerful families in Scotland. For over 1000 years Dunnottar Castle played a crucial role in Scottish history and holds many rich secrets of Scotland’s colourful past. The Castle has played host to some of the nation's greatest historical figures including William Wallace and Mary Queen of Scots and is famous for its role in saving the Honours of Scotland (the Scottish Crown Jewels) from Oliver Cromwell's army in the 1650s.
The castle entrance with the powder magazine on the left and wardens quarters to the right. The feature to the left of the iron gate are four gunloops (holes for poking guns through) arranged in a two up, two down formation.
There is an admission fee to enter the castle, details of which can be found here
There is an admission fee to enter the castle, details of which can be found here
Near the gateway is a multi storey building known as Benholm's Lodging. The top floors were comforting lodgings for James Keith of Benholm, son of the 5th Earl Marischal. The lower floors contain three layers of gun ports facing the approach, although it is considered likely that these were ornamental rather than practical in nature. The upper section of the lodging now houses a small museum.
The view from The Keep looking to the castle ruins
The late 14th Century Keep (or Tower House) is the oldest remaining building on the site. It has a stone vaulted basement and would have originally had 3 further storeys and a garret (a small loft) above.
The Old Smithy
The arch in the centre of this photo is not an entrance as such, but the opening into the enormous fireplace in the castle's smithy. The line of the chimney can be seen rising above. Inside, the Smith would have had his furnace and bellows, and apparently all the equipment he needed, not only to make horse-shoes, but musket balls and cannon balls as well. There is what appears to be a small water stoup to the left, probably used for quenching and heat treating hot metal.
The arch in the centre of this photo is not an entrance as such, but the opening into the enormous fireplace in the castle's smithy. The line of the chimney can be seen rising above. Inside, the Smith would have had his furnace and bellows, and apparently all the equipment he needed, not only to make horse-shoes, but musket balls and cannon balls as well. There is what appears to be a small water stoup to the left, probably used for quenching and heat treating hot metal.
The Castle Stables complete with accommodation for the Livery Masters and their families
Waterton's Lodgings
The building was built in the 16th Century by the 4th Earl for his son and daughter in law and was in effect a separate private residence. It is now named after Thomas Forbes, Laird of Waterton who was a prominent Covenanter (a person who, by solemn agreement, pledged to uphold Presbyterianism) and in the 1640s often stayed in the castle.
The building was built in the 16th Century by the 4th Earl for his son and daughter in law and was in effect a separate private residence. It is now named after Thomas Forbes, Laird of Waterton who was a prominent Covenanter (a person who, by solemn agreement, pledged to uphold Presbyterianism) and in the 1640s often stayed in the castle.
The interior of Waterton's Lodgings
The northern frontage of Waterton's Lodgings
The Silver House with the Bowling Green to the left
So called as the building incorporated a broad stairway with a treasury above which acted as a strongroom in which valuables could be stored. Who knows - it may even have been where the Honours of Scotland were stored in 1651-1652 during Cromwell’s siege of the castle.
So called as the building incorporated a broad stairway with a treasury above which acted as a strongroom in which valuables could be stored. Who knows - it may even have been where the Honours of Scotland were stored in 1651-1652 during Cromwell’s siege of the castle.
You would be very much mistaken thinking this was some sort of ornamental pond. It is in fact a "Cistern" which provided a water supply for the Castle's inhabitants which in turn was brewed into ale in the Brewery to make it safe to drink. The Cistern was excavated in the 20th century and hiding in the deep were four brass pans, a small French sword, five cannon balls, part of a Dutch pot and one and a half silver teaspoons.
The Chapel
Consecrated in 1276 and apparently burned with an English Garrison inside by William Wallace in 1297, it was rebuilt and the two gothic windows of the original Chapel survive to this day
Consecrated in 1276 and apparently burned with an English Garrison inside by William Wallace in 1297, it was rebuilt and the two gothic windows of the original Chapel survive to this day
The interior of the Chapel
One of the seven chambers of the West Range
The chambers were more than likely living quarters for senior members of the Castle staff. Unusually they are separate from each other giving a rare degree of privacy from other occupants. Above these chambers was the ballroom which would have run the length of the first floor.
The chambers were more than likely living quarters for senior members of the Castle staff. Unusually they are separate from each other giving a rare degree of privacy from other occupants. Above these chambers was the ballroom which would have run the length of the first floor.
The Whig's Vault
Following the 1651 siege of the castle the Earls Marshal moved to Inverugie Castle near Peterhead and Dunnottar became a barracks for part-time soldiers. In 1685 there was a short-lived rebellion, supported primarily by those Presbyterians who refused to accept the King's insistence that he be acknowledged as the Supreme Head of the Church. Presbyterians already in Edinburgh prisons were subsequently moved out of the capital to make way for other offenders.
200 people were marched to Dunnottar of which 122 men and 45 women survived the journey. They were thrown into this cellar, now known as the infamous Whig's Vault. Ankle deep in mire and held for 6 weeks with no sanitation, both food and water had to be bought from the guards. 25 men escaped, 2 of whom fell to their deaths and 15 were recaptured and tortured. The remaining prisoners were put on a ship to the West Indies, eventually hitting land in New England however 70 of them died on the voyage.
Following the 1651 siege of the castle the Earls Marshal moved to Inverugie Castle near Peterhead and Dunnottar became a barracks for part-time soldiers. In 1685 there was a short-lived rebellion, supported primarily by those Presbyterians who refused to accept the King's insistence that he be acknowledged as the Supreme Head of the Church. Presbyterians already in Edinburgh prisons were subsequently moved out of the capital to make way for other offenders.
200 people were marched to Dunnottar of which 122 men and 45 women survived the journey. They were thrown into this cellar, now known as the infamous Whig's Vault. Ankle deep in mire and held for 6 weeks with no sanitation, both food and water had to be bought from the guards. 25 men escaped, 2 of whom fell to their deaths and 15 were recaptured and tortured. The remaining prisoners were put on a ship to the West Indies, eventually hitting land in New England however 70 of them died on the voyage.
The Castle Bakery and bread oven. The bakery is said to be haunted by amongst others a woman in green plaid looking for her lost children.
The Thief's Hole
This small secure area was used to house those convicted of minor offences by the courts held in the Castle. Those unfortunate to be locked up here were usually only held for a few days and would have no doubt thought twice about offending again.
This small secure area was used to house those convicted of minor offences by the courts held in the Castle. Those unfortunate to be locked up here were usually only held for a few days and would have no doubt thought twice about offending again.
This building was a guard post and would have had soldiers stationed within it in order to keep watch over the seaward approach to the Castle. The same soldiers would have manned the cannon stationed nearby along the cliff.
The Marischal Suite
This outer room is the reception area of the Marischal Suite which gives access to the Earl's bedroom. King Charles II slept in that very room in 1650 suggesting the this was the most comfortable bedroom in the Castle.
This outer room is the reception area of the Marischal Suite which gives access to the Earl's bedroom. King Charles II slept in that very room in 1650 suggesting the this was the most comfortable bedroom in the Castle.
The Triangular Pediment set over the fireplace in the bedroom is dated 1645 and displays the arms and mottos of the Seventh Earl Marischal and his wife Elizabeth Seton. The motto on the left is "Veritas Vincit" (Truth Conquers) and the one to the right is "Hazard yet Forward" which translates as "Through adversity we will move forward".
A last look at the Castle ruins before we depart for Stonehaven
Off we go after a really interesting wander through history
From the exit we headed for the headland as this would be our route over the higher path back to Stonehaven
Dunnottar Castle from the top of the exit path to the headland
Arriving back in Stonehaven - well I'll be blowed, hopefully the cafe will still be open or our visit could all go flat (I'll get my coat)
The Church of the Immaculate Conception in Stonehaven
Yum, yum - nothing like a piece of cake and a mug of tea to finish off a walk